Bosch Repair

The programme starts but water does not enter or trickles in, and the washer stops after a while.

Possible causes

• The tap is closed or the water pressure is low
• The inlet hose is kinked
• The mesh at the hose connection is blocked by sand or scale
• The water inlet valve

Solution: Open the tap fully and straighten the hose. With the tap closed and the washer unplugged, undo the hose at the back and clean the mesh. If pressure is good and water still does not enter, the valve needs checking.

The washer stops before spinning with water inside, because the allowed drain time has passed.

Possible causes

• The drain pump filter is blocked by coins, buttons or lint
• The drain hose is kinked or blocked
• The wall drain pipe is blocked
• The drain pump

Solution: Drain the water through the small hose, then unscrew and clean the filter, and check that the impeller behind it turns freely. If the filter and hose are clear and the code returns, the pump needs checking.

AquaStop has triggered because it detected water in the base, and the washer drains without continuing.

Possible causes

• A leak from an internal hose or seal
• A leak at the pump or the tub
• Excess foam from unsuitable detergent spilling down

Solution: Turn off the tap, unplug the washer and do not run it until the cause is found. If you used too much detergent, foam may be the cause; otherwise the leak cannot be fixed without opening the washer, and the technician locates and repairs it.

The washer treats the door as open even when closed, and the programme will not start.

Possible causes

• Clothes caught between the door and the seal
• The door catch or hinge
• The electric door lock

Solution: Clear any clothes from the seal and close the door until it clicks. If the code stays, the lock or catch needs checking.

The washer moves during spin, or makes a constant roar even with an empty drum.

Possible causes

• An uneven load or a single heavy item
• Unlevelled feet
• Transit bolts on a new washer
• Shock absorbers or drum bearings

Solution: Spread the load and level the feet. A constant roar points to the bearings, and replacing them means taking the drum apart.

The washer heats on a cold programme, or the water stays cold on hot programmes.

Possible causes

• The heater relay on the board
• The heater or temperature sensor

Solution: For E20 restart the washer; if the code returns, unplug it until it is inspected. Weak heating needs the heater and sensor measured.

About once a month, and check pockets before washing; coins and buttons are the usual cause of E18.

On models that have it, run it with an empty drum to remove detergent residue and scale.

Excess foam can reach the base and trigger AquaStop, showing E23 without a real leak.

After the last wash of the day, so moisture escapes and the seal does not smell.

It means draining took too long. Empty the water through the small hose, clean the pump filter, and make sure the drain hose is not kinked. If the code returns with a clean filter, the pump needs checking.

No difference in meaning; the letter depends on the washer generation or display, and the number identifies the problem.

The washer detected water in its base. Sometimes it is excess foam, but usually there is an internal leak. Turn off the tap and do not use it until a technician finds the cause.

That is the child lock. It is cancelled by a long press on one or two buttons together depending on the model; the method is printed next to the symbol or in the manual.

The dishwasher stops and the water does not drain. E24 usually points to the hose or sink, E25 to something stuck in the pump.

Possible causes

• A blocked filter
• A kinked drain hose or blocked sink connection
• Glass or a bone stuck in the pump impeller
• The pump itself

Solution: Clean the filter, check the hose and sink connection, then clean under the pump cover. If all are clear and the code returns, the pump needs checking.

The protection system detected water in the base, shut the water inlet and ran the pump.

Possible causes

• Foam from hand dish soap used by mistake
• A leak from a seal or internal hose
• A leak at the pump or heater

Solution: Turn off the tap. If foam was the cause, the code clears once the base dries. If it returns without foam, there is an internal leak that needs a technician.

The programme starts with no sound of water, or water trickles in, and the dishwasher stops after a while.

Possible causes

• The tap is closed or the pressure is low
• The inlet hose is kinked
• The mesh at the hose connection is blocked
• The inlet valve

Solution: Open the tap fully and straighten the hose. With the tap closed and the power off, undo the hose from the tap and clean the mesh, without putting the AquaStop box in water. Bosch says a fully open tap should deliver about 10 litres a minute, which you can test with a bucket. If the pressure is good and the code returns, the valve needs checking.

Dishes come out cold with grease left on them, sometimes with the heating code.

Possible causes

• The heater built into the wash pump
• Connections or the control board

Solution: Cut the power for 30 seconds and restore it. If the code returns, a technician needs to measure the heater and board.

Food residue or a gritty film on the dishes, especially on the upper rack.

Possible causes

• A dirty filter (E22 may appear)
• Blocked spray-arm holes
• Tall items stopping an arm from turning
• A short programme on heavy soiling

Solution: Clean the filter and spray arms, and turn each arm by hand after loading. If nothing changes, the wash pump needs checking.

Every week or two, and look under the filter at the pump cover from time to time.

Refill them when the warning light comes on, and set the hardness level as in the manual; scale affects the heater.

The foam reaches the base and triggers E15 even without a leak.

The code relates to draining. Clean the filter, and check that the drain hose is not kinked and the sink connection is not blocked. If it returns, clean under the pump cover.

Not until you know the cause. Turn off the tap. If hand soap was used, wait for the base to dry and try again. If the code returns, there is an internal leak that needs a technician.

Unplug it or switch off the breaker for 30 seconds and restore power. Bosch recommends this before requesting service for electronic codes.

Food in the freezer stays frozen while the fridge gets warmer day by day.

Possible causes

• Ice blocking the air duct because defrost failed
• The defrost heater or its sensor
• The evaporator fan or air damper
• Air vents blocked by food

Solution: Clear the vents first. Defrosting restores cooling for a few days only; the lasting fix is repairing the defrost circuit or fan.

Fruit and vegetables in the drawer or near an air vent freeze.

Possible causes

• The fridge is set too cold
• Food pressed against an air vent
• The temperature sensor or air damper

Solution: Raise the setting one step, keep food away from the vents and wait a day. If freezing continues, the sensor or damper needs checking.

Water collecting inside under the drawers, or dripping in front.

Possible causes

• A blocked defrost drain hole
• The fridge is not level
• The door is left open, raising humidity

Solution: Clear the drain hole with warm water and a thin stick, and level the feet so the fridge tilts back slightly. If water is under the fridge outside, the evaporation tray or its hose needs checking.

A fan hitting something, a louder hum than usual, or clicking.

Possible causes

• A fan touching ice
• The fridge touching the wall or not level
• The compressor or its start relay

Solution: Move the fridge away from the wall and level it. Noise together with weak cooling needs inspection.

Both fridge and freezer are warm, although the display may be on.

Possible causes

• The compressor does not start because of the board or relay
• A leak in the cooling circuit

Solution: This needs a technician to measure. If refrigerant is low, the leak is repaired before recharging.

The fridge releases heat from its back and sides; against a wall or next to the cooker, the compressor works harder.

Food stacked in front of the rear vents blocks the air and freezes whatever is in front of them.

Wipe it with soapy water; a seal that does not close lets in humidity that forms ice and makes the compressor run more.

Only temporarily. If the ice returns within days, the defrost circuit is faulty and needs repair.

Usually yes; in many fridges the condenser pipes run inside the sides. It is a concern only if the heat is intense and cooling is weak.

Refrigerant is not used up. If it is low there is a leak that must be fixed first, otherwise the charge will be lost.

The flame burns while you press the knob and goes out as soon as you let go.

Possible causes

• Not holding the knob long enough after lighting
• The thermocouple tip is out of the flame or dirty
• A faulty thermocouple or safety valve

Solution: Hold for 10 to 15 seconds after lighting. If it still goes out, gently clean the thermocouple tip and check the burner cap is seated. If that does not help, the part needs replacing.

The igniter clicks but the gas does not light, or there is no spark.

Possible causes

• A wet or greasy ignition electrode after cleaning
• A misaligned burner cap
• A blocked gas jet
• The ignition unit or its power supply

Solution: Dry the ignition electrode well and seat the cap. If no burner sparks, the ignition unit needs checking.

The flame is yellow instead of blue, or low even at full setting.

Possible causes

• Blocked burner holes
• A misaligned cap
• Jets not matched to the gas type

Solution: Clean the holes with a dry brush. If you switched between a cylinder and mains gas, a technician must change the jets.

Food cooks on one side, the oven burner goes out after a while, or the grill does not glow.

Possible causes

• The oven burner or its thermocouple
• The oven thermostat
• The electric grill element or its switch
• The door seal

Solution: This needs inspection. First check that the door closes properly and nothing blocks the oven openings.

Refit the caps only when fully dry; water on the ignition electrode is the usual reason ignition stops.

If the hose is dry or cracked, close the valve and replace it with a matching gas hose, leak-test the joint with soapy water, never a flame, and make sure the cylinder regulator is sound. On mains gas, have a technician or the gas company replace it.

The safety valve stays closed until the thermocouple warms up. Hold for 10 to 15 seconds after lighting; if it still goes out, the thermocouple needs cleaning or replacing.

On most models, yes, by changing the jets and adjusting the valves, and it must be done by a technician for safety.

The vacuum runs but no longer picks up dust as before.

Possible causes

• A full bag or bin
• Clogged filters
• Something stuck in the hose or tube
• The bin or lid seal not closing

Solution: Empty, clean the filters and check the hose. If suction is still weak, the motor or body seals need checking.

The cordless vacuum stops a few minutes after a full charge.

Possible causes

• The battery has aged
• The charger or charging base
• Clogged filters making the motor draw more current

Solution: Clean the filters first. If run time is still short, the battery or charger needs measuring before replacing anything.

It works for some minutes then cuts out, and runs again after cooling down.

Possible causes

• Thermal protection triggered by blocked airflow
• The motor or its brushes on corded models

Solution: Let it cool and clean the filters and hose. If it cuts out with good airflow, the motor needs checking.

The floor head brush does not turn, or turns and stops.

Possible causes

• Hair or threads wrapped around the brush
• The brush belt or motor
• The connection between the head and the tube

Solution: Unplug it and cut away wrapped hair with scissors. If it still does not turn, the belt or head motor needs checking.

The bin after each use, and the filter monthly or as the manual says.

Do not leave a cordless vacuum fully drained for long periods, and keep it away from heat.

Usually not. The battery can be replaced on its own, and after measuring it and checking the charger you will know whether replacing it is worthwhile.