Tornado Repair

The programme stops before the spin, with water left in the drum.

Possible causes

• A pump filter blocked by lint, coins or buttons
• A kinked or blocked drain hose
• The hose end set too high or sitting in water
• The drain pump or its connection

Solution: On a front-loader, clean the pump filter once the water has cooled. On a top-loader, straighten the hose and lift its end out of any water, then open and close the lid and press start. If the filter and hose are fine and the code returns, the pump needs checking.

The washer starts with no sound of water, or water trickles in and the washer stops after a while.

Possible causes

• A closed tap or a water cut
• Low water pressure
• A kinked inlet hose, or a blocked mesh at the valve
• The water inlet valve

Solution: Open the tap fully and check that water reaches your other taps. Close the tap, undo the inlet hose and clean the mesh. If pressure is good and water still does not come in, the valve needs checking.

The washer will not start, or stops and beeps as if the door were open.

Possible causes

• The door not closed until it clicks
• Clothes caught at the door seal
• The lid opened during a cycle on a top-loader
• The door lock or lid sensor

Solution: Close the door until you hear a click. On a top-loader, close the lid and the washer resumes by itself. If the code stays with the door properly shut, unplug the washer; the lock needs checking.

A front-loader jumps and moves, and a top-loader stops the spin and beeps after trying to rebalance the load.

Possible causes

• Laundry bunched to one side
• Unlevelled feet or an uneven floor
• Transit bolts still fitted on a new front-loader
• A small load or a single heavy item
• Shock absorbers or bearings

Solution: Spread the laundry and level the feet. On a new washer, make sure the transit bolts have been removed. If it still shakes with an even load, the shock absorbers or bearings need a technician.

The washer drains by itself and stops, or the water rises above its normal level.

Possible causes

• An inlet valve that does not close
• The water level sensor
• A pump that cannot keep up

Solution: Turn off the tap and unplug the washer. A front-loader drains the water by itself first; on a top-loader the manual says to drain it manually. This is an internal fault that needs a technician.

The top-loader shows a code, and the pulsator or drum will not turn in wash or spin, or keeps turning after the washer starts.

Possible causes

• The washer's board
• The motor or its wiring

Solution: Switch the washer off and unplug it. The manual says these codes mean a fault in the board or the motor, and that repair is a technician's job.

Check it every month and clean it at least every two months as the manual suggests, and check pockets before washing so coins and buttons do not reach the pump.

On models with a Tub Clean programme, such as the TWT-TLN10LWT, run it with an empty tub to clear detergent residue.

Check the detergent drawer every week: if there is a lot of foam or residue, use less or switch to an automatic-washer detergent, since the front-loader manual puts excess foam down to too much detergent or the wrong type.

E1 means draining did not finish in the allowed time. Straighten the drain hose and make sure its end is neither too high nor sitting in water, then open and close the lid and start again. If the code returns with a sound hose, the pump needs checking.

First make sure the transit bolts at the back have been removed, since the manual starts installation with them. Then level the feet, and avoid very small loads or a single heavy item.

In the top-loader manual, HE means the water is wrongly connected at the cold inlet. Close the taps, fit each hose to its own inlet, then restart.

Food in the freezer is frozen, but the vegetables and water below are lukewarm.

Possible causes

• Ice blocking the air duct between freezer and fridge
• The defrost heater, its sensor or the timer
• The freezer fan
• A door or seal that does not close properly

Solution: Check the door and seal. If there is ice on the freezer's back wall, defrost has stopped; switching off for a day with the door open melts it for now, but the heater or sensor needs checking so the fault does not return.

A layer of ice on the walls or drawers, which a No Frost fridge should not have.

Possible causes

• The door left open or a loose seal
• The defrost cycle not working
• A blocked defrost drain

Solution: Close the door properly and test the seal with a sheet of paper: if it slides out easily with the door shut, the seal needs replacing. If the seal is fine and ice keeps returning, defrost needs checking.

Water pooling at the bottom of the fridge or dripping in front of it.

Possible causes

• A blocked drain hole at the back of the fridge
• A cracked or misplaced drip tray underneath
• Ice melting after a power cut

Solution: Clear the drain hole with warm water and a thin plastic wire. If the water on the floor comes from underneath, the tray needs inspecting.

The light works but there is no running sound, and the whole fridge is warm.

Possible causes

• Low voltage or a loose socket
• A wrong temperature setting on the display or dial
• The inverter board on inverter models
• The compressor or relay on standard models

Solution: Try another socket and check the setting. If your supply rises and falls, unplug the fridge during cuts. If it stays silent, the technician measures the voltage and the board before judging the compressor.

A constant hum, a fan blade knocking, or vibration.

Possible causes

• An unlevel fridge or one touching the wall
• Ice reaching the freezer fan
• The condenser fan or compressor mounts

Solution: Level the feet and move the fridge slightly away from the wall. If the noise comes from inside the freezer along with ice, the problem is defrost, not the fan itself.

A smell that stays even after spoiled food is removed.

Possible causes

• Standing water in the drain hole
• Uncovered or spoiled food behind the drawers
• The odour filter on models that have one

Solution: Clean the fridge with water and bicarbonate and clear the drain hole. On models with an Ag+ Nano or other odour filter, check its condition in the model's manual.

A sheet of paper between door and cabinet with the door shut: if it slides out easily, warm air gets in and ice builds up.

Do not squeeze the fridge between cabinets or put things on top that block the heat's way out.

A little warm water through the drain hole at the back of the fridge prevents water under the drawers and smells.

The board driving the compressor is the part most affected when voltage rises and falls. If your supply is unstable, a stabiliser rated for the fridge reduces the strain on it.

Its meaning is in the manual that came with the fridge. Photograph the code, and if you do not have the manual, send it to us with a photo of the label.

You press the knob and there is no spark, or there is a spark but the flame does not catch.

Possible causes

• A wet or food-covered igniter after cleaning
• A burner cap not seated properly
• Blocked burner holes
• The ignition unit or its wire

Solution: Dry the burner and igniter well after wiping, seat the cap properly and clear the holes with a needle. Do not hold the knob down for more than 15 seconds without a flame: turn it off and air the room before trying again. If no burner sparks at all, the ignition unit needs a technician.

The flame holds while you press, then goes out as soon as you let go.

Possible causes

• The knob not held long enough
• A dirty or weak flame sensor (thermocouple)
• The flame not reaching the sensor

Solution: Keep pressing for 3 to 4 seconds after lighting. If it still goes out, the sensor needs cleaning or replacing by a technician.

The flame is long and yellow instead of blue, and pans blacken underneath.

Possible causes

• Blocked burner holes
• A jet that does not suit the gas type
• Not enough air around the burner

Solution: Clean the burner and its holes. A yellow flame means incomplete burning, which produces carbon monoxide, so ventilate the kitchen and limit use until it is adjusted. If the flame stays yellow, the technician checks the jet and the gas type, especially if the cooker was converted from cylinder to natural gas.

A gas smell in the kitchen even with every burner off.

Possible causes

• An old or cracked gas hose
• A loose connection
• A leaking burner valve

Solution: Close the valve and air the room. This is not a fault to tackle yourself; the technician tests the connections with soapy foam and replaces the hose or valve.

Soak them in warm soapy water and dry them well before refitting, so the igniter does not get wet.

Check it at least once a year: if it is dry, cracked or old, close the valve and do not use the cooker until a technician replaces it and leak-tests the joints with soapy water. Do not let it run behind the cooker where it gets hot.

Freestanding cookers under the brand do not currently show up at major retailers such as B.TECH, Carrefour or 2B. The brand has published a manual for built-in hobs such as the GHV-M90CSU-BK and GHV-M60CSU-BK, and the 90 cm hob is sold online with a page listing it as made in Turkey.

You turn the knobs and the oven stays cold, with or without the lamp lighting.

Possible causes

• The socket, plug or cable
• The timer not turned, or faulty
• The thermostat
• The heating elements or the thermal fuse

Solution: Try another socket, then set a temperature and turn the timer. If the lamp lights and the oven is still cold, the technician measures the elements, thermostat and thermal fuse.

Food browns on top and stays raw underneath, or the other way round.

Possible causes

• The selected heating mode
• One of the two elements burnt out
• The tray on an unsuitable shelf

Solution: Change the mode and try the tray on the middle shelf. If the top or bottom element never glows when it should be on, it needs replacing.

There is heat, but the air does not circulate, or there is a rubbing noise.

Possible causes

• The selected mode does not use the fan
• Something blocking the blade
• The fan motor

Solution: Choose a mode that uses the fan and, once the oven is cool and unplugged, look for anything fallen behind the guard. If the blade is free and the fan stays silent, the motor needs a technician.

On models supplied with a spit, such as the TEO-48DGE(K), the chicken roasts on one side only.

Possible causes

• The spit end not fully seated in the motor socket
• The load unevenly balanced on the spit
• The spit motor

Solution: Push the spit end fully into the motor socket and fix the food in the middle. If the motor is silent with the spit seated correctly, it needs a technician.

The time runs out but the oven stays hot, or the timer does not move.

Possible causes

• The mechanical timer itself
• A connection at the timer switch

Solution: Unplug the oven after each use until it is repaired. The timer is a single part a technician can replace.

The power cuts as soon as you switch it on, or there is a smell of burnt plastic.

Possible causes

• A shorted element
• A melted or bare internal wire
• A melted plug or socket

Solution: Unplug the oven and do not use it again. This is an electrical fault that needs a technician to check the elements and wiring.

Wipe grease off the walls and tray every few uses, because burnt grease gives off smoke and smells.

If the cable is worn or the plug gets hot or blackened, stop using the oven until it is replaced.

No built-in oven under the brand shows up at major retailers such as B.TECH, Carrefour or 2B; what is on sale are countertop electric ovens. If you have an older oven from the brand, photograph the label and send it.

The thermostat may now be cutting out early, or one of the two elements may have weakened. Put an oven thermometer inside and set 180 °C; if the difference is large, the thermostat needs checking.

The programme stops or ends with water standing under the filter.

Possible causes

• Blocked filters
• A kinked or blocked drain hose
• A blocked sink drain connection
• The drain pump

Solution: Cancel the programme, clean the filters and straighten the drain hose. The manual says to call for service if the code stays, and then the pump needs checking.

The machine starts with no sound of water coming in, then stops with a code.

Possible causes

• A closed tap or a weak water supply
• A blocked inlet hose filter
• A kinked inlet hose
• The inlet valve

Solution: Open the tap and make sure water is flowing. Close it, detach the inlet hose from the tap and clean its filter as the manual says. If the code comes back, the inlet valve needs checking.

The machine stops and runs its pump, or water does not stop coming in.

Possible causes

• An inlet valve stuck open
• A leak inside the machine
• Foam from an unsuitable detergent

Solution: Turn off the tap and unplug the machine. This is an internal fault, and a technician must locate it before any further use.

The programme finishes normally, but the dishes are not clean.

Possible causes

• Dishes stacked against each other
• Too little detergent
• A programme too light for the soiling
• Blocked spray-arm holes or filters

Solution: Load so water reaches every dish and the arm turns freely, use the correct amount of detergent, and choose a stronger programme for pots. Clear the arm holes with a toothpick.

Dishes come out cold and wet, or the display shows a code.

Possible causes

• The heater
• The heater's temperature sensor
• Scale on the heater in hard water

Solution: The manual says both codes need service. The technician measures the heater and sensor, and after the repair keep the salt topped up so scale does not return.

The display is dark and the programme will not start, or the machine stops with a voltage code.

Possible causes

• Not plugged in or not switched on
• A blown fuse in the home
• The door not shut or the tap closed
• Supply voltage too high or too low

Solution: Check the plug and fuse, shut the door and open the tap. If the code is HI or LO and your supply rises and falls, try again once it settles; if it stays, it needs a technician.

A regular knocking from inside while it runs.

Possible causes

• The spray arm hitting a dish in the lower basket
• Something fallen under the basket

Solution: Pause the programme, turn the arm by hand and move any dish or pot blocking it.

Clean the filter once a week, and scrape large food scraps off plates before loading them.

Models with a salt indicator tell you when it runs out; salt reduces scale on the heater, and rinse aid helps dishes dry without water spots.

The manual says to unplug it, close the tap and leave the door slightly open so no odour builds up.

F2 means the water cannot drain. Cancel the programme, take the filters out of the base and clean them, and make sure the drain hose is not kinked. If the code returns with clean filters, the pump needs checking.

The machine measures its supply voltage: HI means too high and LO too low. If this keeps happening with mains fluctuations at home, ask the technician about a suitable voltage stabiliser.

You open the hot tap and hear the igniter, or nothing at all, and the flame does not catch.

Possible causes

• Weak batteries
• A closed gas valve or an empty cylinder
• Water pressure too low to start the heater
• The ignition electrode or flame sensor

Solution: The user manual starts with changing the batteries, and on models powered by a charger instead of batteries it says to check the charger's light: if it is off, try another charger. Open the gas valve and the tap fully. If all of that is fine and it still will not light, the electrode or sensor needs a technician.

The water is hot, then turns cold suddenly during a long shower.

Possible causes

• The safety cut-off after about 20 minutes on models such as the GHE-C10CTE-W
• Batteries running down

Solution: Close the tap and open it again, and the heater normally lights again. If it goes out sooner than that, try new batteries first.

The heater runs normally, then goes out when the flow drops.

Possible causes

• Low water pressure in the home
• A blocked water inlet filter on the heater
• The tap not opened far enough

Solution: Open the hot tap further. The GHE-C10CTE-W page says it works from 0.3 bar, so if your household pressure is lower than that, the problem is the water supply, not the heater. The inlet filter is cleaned by a technician.

A gas smell near the heater, or a yellow flame leaving soot.

Possible causes

• A loose gas connection
• A blocked flue, or one not leading outside
• The heater not set up for your gas type

Solution: Shut the gas valve, air the room and leave the heater off. A technician must check the connections and flue before the heater runs again.

The lamp lights, but the water does not get as hot as before or runs out quickly.

Possible causes

• A low temperature setting, or a changed mode on a digital model
• A burnt or scaled heating element
• The thermostat

Solution: Raise the temperature and check the selected mode on the screen. If nothing changes, the technician measures the element and thermostat, which are replaced on their own while the tank stays.

As soon as you switch it on, the breaker or the earth-leakage switch trips.

Possible causes

• A shorted or cracked element
• Water reaching the electrical connections

Solution: Leave the breaker off and do not try again. Electricity and water together are a job for a technician.

The digital electric heater has stopped with letters or numbers on the screen.

Possible causes

• The overheating protection has tripped
• The empty-tank heating protection has tripped
• A sensor or the board

Solution: Photograph the code, make sure the tank is full of water, and check your model's manual. If the code returns, the sensor or board needs checking.

A weak battery delays the spark, and the manual starts with it for any ignition problem.

Once a year: switch off the breaker and let the water cool; after draining, refill until water runs from the hot tap before restoring power. On models with a magnesium anode, such as the TEEE-50MW, have a technician check it.

Every week, check the flue still leads outside with nothing hung on it, and do not close the window next to the gas heater while it runs.

Usually not. The pages for digital models such as the GHM-C06CTE-W and GHE-C10CTE-W say it switches itself off after roughly 20 minutes as a safety measure. If it goes out sooner, start with the batteries and the water pressure.

Retailers' pages say the GHM-C06CTE-W can be converted to natural gas. Conversion changes parts in the gas path and its setting, so it is a technician's job, not something to do yourself.