Beko Repair

The programme starts but the drum stays empty or water trickles in, and after a while a code may appear (such as E04 on some models).

Possible causes

• The tap is partly closed or the home water pressure is low
• The small mesh where the hose meets the washer is blocked by scale
• The inlet hose is kinked behind the machine
• The water inlet valve does not open

Solution: Turn off the tap and unplug the washer, undo the hose at the back and clean the mesh with a small brush. If water still does not enter with good pressure, the valve needs testing by a technician.

The cycle stops before spinning with water in the drum, and a code may appear (such as E05 on some models).

Possible causes

• The pump filter is blocked by a coin, a pin or lint
• The drain hose is kinked or pushed too far into the pipe
• The wall drain pipe is blocked
• The drain pump itself has failed

Solution: Unplug the washer and, if the programme was hot, let the water cool. Place a shallow container and a towel, open the pump filter slowly until the water runs out, then remove, clean and refit it. Restore power and run a drain programme: if you hear the pump running but nothing drains, there is usually a blockage in the hose or pipe; if there is no sound at all, the pump or its wiring needs checking.

You press start and the lock light stays off, or you hear the lock click and then the washer cuts out, sometimes with the door code.

Possible causes

• Clothes caught between the door and the seal
• A loose door catch or hinge so the door does not close fully
• A faulty electric door lock
• A broken wire between the lock and the control board

Solution: Clear any clothes from the seal and close the door firmly until it clicks. If the problem stays, the lock or its wiring needs testing with a meter, and replacing it is usually quick.

The washer is quiet while washing, but moves around or makes a knocking or roaring noise when it starts to spin.

Possible causes

• A single heavy item in the drum, such as a blanket or a jacket
• The washer is not level on the floor
• Transit bolts still fitted on a new washer
• Worn shock absorbers or failing drum bearings

Solution: Spread the load or add more items, and level the feet with a spirit level. A constant roar even with an empty drum points to the bearings, and replacing them means taking the drum apart.

The programme ends without a proper spin, sometimes with an imbalance code (such as E11 on some models).

Possible causes

• An unbalanced load, so the washer cancels the spin to protect itself
• A low spin speed or a no-spin programme was selected
• Slow draining, so the water is not out before the spin

Solution: Check the spin speed of the programme, spread the load and run a spin-only programme. If it keeps happening with a normal load, check the draining first.

Washing continues but the water stays cold on hot programmes, or the washer stops and shows a code.

Possible causes

• A heater coated with thick scale, or burnt out
• A faulty water temperature sensor
• A fault in the heater circuit on the control board

Solution: A technician needs to measure the heater and sensor resistance. After the repair, a monthly drum-clean programme keeps scale off the new heater.

Every month or two, and check pockets before washing; coins and pins are the usual cause of a blocked drain.

A hot programme with an empty drum removes detergent residue and scale from the heater.

Too much detergent, or hand-wash powder, creates foam that stops the programme and leaves odours in the seal.

If your power often cuts or drops, a stabiliser or surge protector lowers the risk of damaging the inverter board.

If not enough water is coming in: make sure the tap is open and the hose is not kinked, then turn off the tap, unplug the washer and clean the mesh where the hose meets the washer. If water still does not enter, the valve needs checking. On some models E04 means too much water: if water keeps entering while the washer is stopped, turn off the tap and book an inspection.

At the bottom corner of the front panel behind a small cover. Before opening it, unplug the washer and, if the programme was hot, let the water cool; then open it slowly over a shallow container and a towel, because the water in the drum drains out through it.

Wait two minutes after the programme ends. If there is water in the drum the lock will not release: unplug the washer, let the water cool if the programme was hot, and drain it through the pump filter. If the drum is empty and the door is still locked, the lock itself needs checking.

Not necessarily. On some models E11 appears when the load is unbalanced during the spin, so spread the laundry and run the spin again. If the code returns with a normal load, the motor drive board and its wiring are checked first, and the motor is tested before any decision to replace it.

Food in the freezer stays frozen, while the fridge below gets warmer day by day.

Possible causes

• Ice on the evaporator blocking the air duct because defrost failed
• A faulty defrost heater, sensor or timer
• The freezer fan has stopped or is touching ice
• Air vents in the fridge blocked by food

Solution: Clear the vents first. If the problem continues, defrosting the ice brings cooling back only temporarily, and the lasting fix is repairing the defrost circuit.

Both the fridge and freezer are warm, even though the light may work normally.

Possible causes

• The compressor does not start because of the relay or board
• The compressor runs but there is a leak in the cooling circuit
• The condenser fan at the bottom (on some models) has stopped

Solution: Unplug the fridge, switch it on after ten minutes and listen for the compressor. Either way a technician needs to measure; a leak must be fixed before any refrigerant is added.

Water collecting at the bottom of the fridge under the crisper, or dripping in front of it.

Possible causes

• The defrost drain hole at the back of the fridge is blocked
• The fridge leans forward
• The door is left open often, raising humidity

Solution: Clear the drain hole with warm water and a thin stick without piercing it, and adjust the feet so the fridge tilts back slightly.

A fan hitting something, a loud hum from below, or repeated clicking.

Possible causes

• The freezer fan touching ice
• The fridge touching the wall or not level
• The compressor relay trying to start and cutting out

Solution: Move the fridge away from the wall and level it. Repeated clicking together with weak cooling needs the relay and compressor checked.

A No Frost freezer should not have ice on its walls, so ice appearing is a sign of a problem.

Possible causes

• The door seal does not close well, letting humid air in
• The door is opened often or left ajar
• The defrost cycle is not working

Solution: Close the door on a sheet of paper at several points: if it slides out easily the seal needs replacing. If the seal is fine, the defrost system needs checking.

Food in front of the air vent, or on the shelf just under the freezer, freezes.

Possible causes

• The fridge temperature is set too cold
• Food placed directly in front of the cold-air vent
• The fridge temperature sensor or air damper

Solution: Raise the temperature setting one step and keep food away from the vent. If freezing continues, the sensor or damper needs checking.

The fridge releases heat from its back and sides, so if it is against a wall or next to the cooker the compressor works harder.

Once a month with warm water when you clean the fridge, so defrost water does not collect under the crisper.

Food stacked in front of the vents stops cold air reaching the rest of the fridge.

Wipe it with soapy water, and if it is torn or does not close somewhere, replacing it costs far less than the faults it causes.

Usually not. In many fridges the condenser pipes run inside the sides and frame, so warmth is normal while it runs. It is worrying only if the heat is intense and cooling is weak.

Refrigerant is not used up over time. If it is low there is a leak, and the leak must be found and fixed first, otherwise the new charge will be lost again.

Only temporarily. If ice builds up again within days, the defrost circuit is faulty and needs repair, otherwise the problem will return.

The programme ends or stops, and you find water under the filter when you open the door.

Possible causes

• The filter is blocked by food or grease
• The drain hose is kinked behind the dishwasher
• The drain connection under the sink is blocked
• The drain pump has failed or something small is stuck in it

Solution: Clean the filter and check the drain hose and its sink connection. If the pump makes noise but nothing drains, something is usually stuck in it; if it is silent, it needs an electrical check.

The programme starts with no sound of water coming in, and the dishwasher stops or shows a code.

Possible causes

• The tap is closed or the water pressure is low
• The inlet hose is kinked
• The mesh at the hose connection is blocked by sand or scale
• The water inlet valve has failed

Solution: Open the tap fully, undo the hose and clean the mesh. If water still does not enter, the valve, or the leak-protection device on some models, needs checking.

Food left on the dishes, especially on the upper rack or the back of the racks.

Possible causes

• A dirty filter recirculates dirty water onto the dishes
• Blocked holes in the spray arms
• A tall pan or tray stops a spray arm from turning
• A quick programme used on heavily greasy dishes

Solution: Clean the filter and spray arms (they come off for washing), and spin each arm by hand after loading. If all that is fine and the problem continues, the wash pump or heater needs checking.

The dishes are clean but glasses have a white film or spots once dry.

Possible causes

• The salt container is empty or the hardness level is set too low
• The rinse aid has run out
• Too much detergent

Solution: Refill the salt and rinse aid and set the hardness level as in the manual. If vinegar removes the film it is mineral; if not, the glass itself has been etched.

Dishes come out cold and wet, and grease is not removed.

Possible causes

• A failed heater
• The temperature sensor
• On most models drying relies on the heat of the final rinse, so weak heating also means poor drying

Solution: A technician needs to measure the heater and sensor. Opening the door slightly at the end of the programme also lets steam out and improves drying.

A puddle in front of or under the dishwasher after a cycle.

Possible causes

• Hand dish soap used by mistake, causing foam
• A dirty or torn door seal
• Loose inlet or drain hose connections

Solution: Never use ordinary dish soap. Clean the seal and tighten the connections. If the leak comes from under the inner tub, unplug the dishwasher and book an inspection.

Every week or two, more often if you load dishes with a lot of leftovers.

Refill them as soon as the warning light comes on, and never use table salt instead of dishwasher salt.

Run the hottest programme empty with a dishwasher cleaner to remove grease and scale.

Bones, fruit peel and rice block the filter and pump. No need to rinse, just remove large scraps.

No, that is delay start. The dishwasher starts on its own when the countdown ends, or you can cancel it with the delay button or a long press on start, depending on the model.

Photograph it and send it with the model number. Beko dishwasher code meanings differ between generations, so the code is read together with the symptom: whether it stopped while filling, draining or heating.

Yes, in areas with hard water. The salt regenerates the softener inside the dishwasher, and without it minerals build up on the dishes and the heater.

Food is soft or thawing, while the compressor may be running normally.

Possible causes

• The lid or door does not close well or the seal is damaged
• A thick layer of ice on the walls of a chest model
• The freezer is near a heat source or against a wall
• A leak in the cooling circuit or a weak compressor

Solution: Check the seal and leave space around the freezer. On a chest model, defrost if the ice is thick; on a No Frost upright, any ice on the walls is a fault in itself (see the ice fault below). If freezing is still weak, a technician measures the cooling circuit pressure and temperatures.

The compressor sound never stops, and the electricity bill has risen.

Possible causes

• The thermostat is set to the coldest position
• The lid is opened often or does not close
• Heavy ice, or the freezer is in a hot spot
• A faulty thermostat or low refrigerant from a leak

Solution: Return the thermostat to a middle setting and wait a day. If the compressor still never stops and freezing is weak, it needs inspection.

On many models a red or orange light means the inside temperature is higher than it should be.

Possible causes

• A fresh start or after a power cut, or a large load of new food
• The lid was left open
• Weak cooling

Solution: Wait a few hours after start-up or a new load. If the light stays on for a whole day, treat it as weak freezing.

A louder hum than usual, or a repeated click with the compressor failing to keep running.

Possible causes

• The freezer is not level or is touching something
• The compressor relay is trying to start and cutting out

Solution: Reposition and level it. Repeated clicking with weak cooling needs the relay and compressor checked.

A layer of ice on the walls or around the drawers, in a freezer that should not build ice at all.

Possible causes

• The door seal does not close well, letting humid air in
• The door is left ajar or opened often
• The defrost system (heater or its sensor) or the fan

Solution: Close the door on a sheet of paper at several points: if it slides out easily, the seal needs replacing. If the seal is fine and the ice returns after defrosting, the defrost system or fan needs a technician. Never chip the ice with a knife or sharp tool.

On chest models (MinFrost included), once the ice is thicker than about half a centimetre, unplug and defrost without knives or sharp tools.

Let food cool first; hot food raises the inside temperature and forms ice faster.

A damaged seal lets in humid air, the main cause of ice and a compressor that never stops.

Let it run empty for several hours until it reaches freezing temperature before loading food; the exact time is in the model's manual.

If the lid stayed closed, a full freezer keeps its temperature for hours. Do not open it during the cut, and once power returns, food that is still frozen solid is usually fine.

The flame burns while you press the knob, and goes out as soon as you let go.

Possible causes

• The knob is not held long enough after lighting
• The thermocouple (safety sensor) is out of the flame or dirty
• A faulty thermocouple or safety valve

Solution: Hold the knob for 10 to 15 seconds after the burner lights. If it still goes out, gently clean the thermocouple tip; if that does not help, a technician needs to replace the part.

No clicking, or clicking but the gas does not light.

Possible causes

• The spark plug is wet or greasy after cleaning
• The burner cap is not seated correctly
• A blocked gas jet
• The ignition unit or its power supply

Solution: Dry the spark plug and seat the burner cap correctly. If there is no spark on any burner, check the cooker is plugged in; if it is, the ignition unit needs checking.

The flame is yellow instead of blue, or pans blacken underneath.

Possible causes

• Burner holes blocked by food
• The burner cap is misaligned
• The cooker is set up for a different gas type than the one supplied

Solution: Clean the burner holes with a dry brush. If you switched between a cylinder and mains gas, the jets must be changed by a technician.

Food cooks on one side only, or the oven goes out after a while.

Possible causes

• The oven burner or its thermocouple on gas ovens
• The element or thermostat on electric ovens
• A stopped oven fan on fan-assisted models
• A damaged door seal

Solution: This needs a technician. Before that, check that the door closes properly and nothing is blocking the oven's air openings.

Refit the caps only when fully dry; water on the spark plug is the usual reason ignition stops working.

If the hose is dry, cracked or past its date, close the valve and have a technician or the gas company replace it; never test for leaks with a flame. Also make sure a cylinder has a sound regulator.

That is the safety valve: it stays closed until the thermocouple warms up. Hold for 10 to 15 seconds after lighting; if it still goes out, the thermocouple needs cleaning or replacing.

On most models, yes, by changing the jets and adjusting the valves, and it must be done by a technician for a safe, correct flame.

The plate turns and the timer counts down, but food comes out cold.

Possible causes

• The magnetron (the heating source)
• The diode or capacitor in the high-voltage circuit
• The high-voltage fuse

Solution: First make sure you are not on grill-only mode (on grill models such as the MGF30330S) and that the power level is not at its lowest. If food stays cold on full power, this is for a technician only because of the high voltage, and the technician measures these parts in order before replacing anything.

Flashes or crackling inside while it runs.

Possible causes

• Metal inside: a spoon, foil, or a plate with a gold rim
• The wave-guide cover is soaked with grease or burnt
• Peeling paint on the inner walls

Solution: Unplug it and remove any metal. If the wave-guide cover is burnt or the paint is peeling, they must be repaired before further use.

The display is dark, or nothing happens when you press start.

Possible causes

• The socket or plug
• One of the door switches not engaging
• A blown main fuse

Solution: Try another socket and close the door firmly. A blown fuse is often caused by a faulty door switch, so the technician checks both together.

The plate stays still or jerks with a noise.

Possible causes

• The roller ring under the plate is misplaced or dirty
• The turntable motor

Solution: Clean the ring and its track and seat the plate on the coupler. If it still does not turn, a technician replaces the turntable motor; it is an inexpensive part.

No. The fault is in the high-voltage circuit, and the capacitor keeps a dangerous charge even after unplugging. Testing and replacement are for a technician only.

If the spark was caused by metal that you removed and everything looks fine, yes. If it repeats without metal, stop using it until the wave-guide cover and walls are inspected.