ع Call now16062
A white upright deep freezer in a tidy utility room, its door open to reveal stacked translucent freezer drawers
Calls 24h · Visits 9 AM–9 PM

Deep Freezer Repair in Egypt

Chest, upright, No-Frost and Defrost deep freezer repair

Book a service Call now 16062

6-month written warranty on the repair and the replaced part

Agent Site is an independent repair center — not the manufacturer's authorized service or warranty provider.

6-month warrantyWritten, on repair and part
Daily visits9 AM–9 PM
Gas rechargeAfter a leak test
Compressor replacementOriginal or compatible

Deep freezer repair at home or in your shop: weak cooling, heavy ice, the compressor and start relay, door seals, and the defrost system on no-frost models. A gas recharge with the right refrigerant for your model (R134a or R600a) is only done after the leak is found and repaired, and every repair uses original or compatible parts, depending on the part and model, with a 6-month written warranty.

Deep Freezer Repair Services

From gas recharges and compressor replacement to door seals and the defrost system — every repair carries a 6-month written warranty.

Book a service

Refrigerant Gas Recharge

The technician finds and repairs the leak, pressure-tests with nitrogen and evacuates the circuit, then charges the gas stated on the rating plate (R134a on older models, R600a on most newer ones) in the correct amount.

Compressor Replacement

An original or compatible compressor matched to the rating of your freezer, including inverter compressors on some models — with a 6-month written warranty.

Door Seal Replacement

A worn seal lets the cold escape and pushes up the bill. Replacing it with an original or compatible seal saves a noticeable amount of electricity.

Defrost System Repair (No-Frost)

Replacing the defrost heater, timer or defrost thermostat on no-frost models to stop ice build-up — after each part is tested and the fault confirmed.

Condenser Cleaning & Ventilation

On models with an exposed condenser at the back or underneath, we clean the dust off it. On chest freezers the condenser is inside the walls, so we check the clearance and ventilation around the cabinet.

Shop & Restaurant Freezers

We repair commercial deep freezers in shops and restaurants with the same inspection steps and 6-month written warranty. If you have several units, call 16062 to arrange the visits.

Shops & restaurants

Deep Freezer Types We Service

Each type has its own typical faults — pick yours to see its warning signs, common faults and care tips.

A white horizontal chest freezer, wide low rectangular insulated cabinet with one top lid open at about 60 degrees, white inner cavity and one hanging wire basket, in a clean utility room

Chest Freezer Repair

One of the most common types in Egyptian homes — large capacity with a top-opening lid.
A tall white upright freezer with its single front door open, six stacked translucent pull-out freezer drawers visible inside, plain unbranded exterior, clean utility room

Upright Freezer Repair

Shelves and drawers that are easy to organise, with a smaller footprint.
A tall silver no-frost upright freezer with single door open, clean frost-free translucent freezer drawers, small real air circulation vents at the top of the inner back wall, in a bright utility room

No-Frost Deep Freezer Repair

Automatic defrost — no ice build-up and no manual defrosting.
A compact white manual-defrost upright freezer, front door open with three simple freezer compartments and visible cooling shelves, only a very fine natural frost trace along a cooling shelf, clean utility room

Defrost Deep Freezer Repair

Simpler, with cheaper parts — usually needs a manual defrost once or twice a year.

Deep Freezers brands

Service details for your appliance brand

17 brands
BekoKiriaziAlaskaAdmiralGorenjeWhirlpool
All supported brands 17
White Point Deep Freezer repairElectrostar Deep Freezer repairGibson Deep Freezer repairGrohe Deep Freezer repairHoover Deep Freezer repairIberna Deep Freezer repairIndesit Deep Freezer repairKelvinator Deep Freezer repairMaytag Deep Freezer repairPremium Deep Freezer repairSanyo Deep Freezer repair

Deep Freezers service areas

We cover Cairo, Giza, Qalyubia, Alexandria, Matrouh (North Coast), Sharqia, Gharbia, Dakahlia. Not sure about your area? Call 16062 and we confirm before booking.

  • Cairo
  • Giza
  • Qalyubia
  • Alexandria
  • Matrouh (North Coast)
  • Sharqia
  • Gharbia
  • Dakahlia

Common Deep Freezer Faults & Fixes

For each fault: the symptoms, likely causes, safe checks you can do yourself, and when to call a technician.

Freezer not cooling enough

Technician Food not frozen hard and the temperature above -18°C? Common causes: a worn door seal, poor ventilation, the thermostat, a gas leak or a weak compressor.

If the freezer runs but food stays soft or the inside is warmer than -18°C, start with the simple checks: the thermostat setting, the door seal and the space around the cabinet. If all of those are fine and the compressor runs non-stop, the usual causes are a refrigerant leak or a weak compressor — a technician confirms this by measuring the pressure before any recharge.

Symptoms

  • Food is soft rather than frozen hard
  • Ice and ice cream are melting
  • The inside temperature is above -18°C
  • The compressor runs constantly and never cycles off
  • The electricity bill has suddenly gone up
  • The inner walls are not as cold as they used to be
  • The display (if fitted) shows a higher temperature than the setting

Likely causes

  1. A refrigerant leak (a common cause as the freezer ages)
  2. A compressor weakened by age
  3. A worn door seal letting warm air in
  4. Dust on the condenser, or too little space around the freezer
  5. A faulty thermostat, or one set too warm
  6. A stopped evaporator fan (on no-frost models)
  7. A large load of warm food added at once
  8. The freezer standing next to a heat source (a cooker or direct sun)

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. Check the thermostat setting Set the thermostat to -18°C, or to a middle number on a numbered dial, then keep the door closed for a few hours before checking the temperature again.
  2. Check the door seal Do the paper test on the seal (explained under "Freezer door not sealing"). A seal that does not close properly is enough on its own to weaken cooling.
  3. Give it space and clean the condenser Leave space around the freezer so it can shed heat. On most chest freezers the condenser is built into the walls, so warm sides are normal. If your model has an exposed condenser at the back or underneath, unplug it first and clean it with a soft brush.

When to stop and call a technician

  • The checks above did not help and cooling is still weak
  • You suspect a refrigerant leak — never recharge or braze it yourself
  • The compressor sounds unusual or is very hot
  • The compressor runs non-stop and never cycles off
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: Chest FreezerUpright FreezerNo-Frost Deep FreezerDefrost Deep Freezer

Refrigerant gas leak

Technician Compressor running but cooling weak? It may be a refrigerant leak. The technician finds and repairs it and pressure-tests before recharging — and R600a gas is flammable.

Refrigerant does not get used up — if the level is low, there is a leak, usually a pinhole in the evaporator tubing or a brazed copper joint after years of use. Older models usually run on R134a and newer ones on R600a (isobutane), which is flammable. The right repair is to locate and seal the leak, pressure-test with nitrogen, evacuate the circuit, and then charge the amount stated on the rating plate.

Symptoms

  • The compressor runs constantly but cooling is weak
  • The freezer takes much longer to reach -18°C
  • Oily spots around joints or tubing
  • A faint hissing sound from the tubing
  • Only part of the evaporator frosts over
  • High power consumption
  • The inside stays warm even though the compressor is running

Likely causes

  1. A pinhole in the evaporator tubing from corrosion
  2. A leak at a brazed copper joint
  3. Corrosion of the tubing caused by moisture
  4. A knock or scratch on the tubing — often from chipping ice with a knife or screwdriver
  5. A cracked line caused by vibration

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. Do not recharge it yourself A proper recharge needs the leak located and sealed, a nitrogen pressure test, the circuit evacuated with a vacuum pump, and the charge weighed in. Recharging without fixing the leak only brings the fault back. If you smell gas or suspect a leak: R600a is flammable — keep flames and sparks away, open the windows to ventilate, then unplug the freezer and call a technician. Never recharge or braze it yourself.

When to stop and call a technician

  • Any suspicion of a leak — call a technician
  • The technician locates the leak with a detector suited to the refrigerant type (or bubble solution) and pressure-tests with nitrogen before recharging
  • Recharging without repairing the leak only brings the fault back
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: Chest FreezerUpright FreezerNo-Frost Deep FreezerDefrost Deep Freezer

Compressor not starting

Technician Interior light on but the compressor is silent, or hums and cuts out? Usually the start relay, capacitor or overload — sometimes the thermostat or the compressor itself.

If power is reaching the freezer (the interior light works) but the compressor does not start, or hums for a few seconds and cuts out, the usual causes are a failed start relay or capacitor, an overload that keeps tripping, or a thermostat that is not calling for cooling. A burnt compressor winding is less common but costlier. The technician confirms the faulty part with a multimeter.

Symptoms

  • No sound from the compressor at all
  • A short hum, then silence (the compressor tries to start and fails)
  • The interior light works (so power is reaching it)
  • The temperature inside keeps rising
  • A click from the relay every few minutes
  • The house breaker trips when the freezer is plugged in
  • The compressor body is very hot

Likely causes

  1. A failed start relay (a common cause)
  2. A failed capacitor
  3. A faulty thermostat that does not switch the compressor on
  4. The overload protector has tripped from heat (it resets by itself once the compressor cools)
  5. Burnt compressor windings
  6. A disconnected internal wire
  7. A mechanically seized compressor (rare)

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. Confirm that power is reaching it Check whether the interior light or display comes on. If it does but the compressor stays silent, the fault is in the compressor starting circuit, not the socket. Do not open the relay cover or touch the compressor terminals.
  2. Let it cool down If the compressor is very hot, unplug the freezer for about an hour. The overload protector cuts the compressor when it overheats and resets by itself once it cools — if it keeps happening, call a technician.

When to stop and call a technician

  • Any compressor problem — call a technician
  • Do not try to open the compressor or the relay yourself
  • The breaker trips when the freezer is plugged in — leave it unplugged
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: Chest FreezerUpright FreezerNo-Frost Deep FreezerDefrost Deep Freezer

Heavy ice build-up

Medium Thick ice on the walls or evaporator? In a manual-defrost freezer that is normal; in a no-frost model, or if it forms fast, there is a fault — usually the door seal or the defrost system.

In a manual-defrost freezer (including most chest freezers) ice builds up normally and needs defrosting by hand once it is about 5 mm thick. If it forms unusually fast, or the freezer is no-frost, there is a fault: usually a door seal letting in humid air, an automatic defrost system that is not working (heater, defrost thermostat or timer), or a blocked drain.

Symptoms

  • Thick ice on the inner walls (more than about 5 mm)
  • The door or lid is hard to close because of ice
  • Shelves or baskets are stuck in the ice
  • The ice comes back quickly after defrosting
  • Ice on the evaporator only (no-frost models)
  • Food stuck to the walls

Likely causes

  1. A worn door seal letting in humid air (the most common cause)
  2. Opening the door too often
  3. A burnt-out defrost heater (no-frost models)
  4. A faulty defrost thermostat or timer (no-frost models)
  5. A blocked drain, so the water refreezes
  6. No manual defrost for a long time (manual-defrost models)
  7. The freezer standing in a very humid room

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. Defrost it safely by hand Unplug the freezer, move the food to a cool box or the fridge, and leave the door open until the ice melts. You can put a pan of hot water inside and close the door to speed it up, and lay towels under the freezer for the water. Never use a knife, screwdriver or any sharp tool (it can puncture the gas tubing, and R600a gas is flammable), a hair dryer or heater (electricity near water), or any open flame.
  2. Check the door seal Do the paper test (explained under "Freezer door not sealing"). If the seal is not closing, humid air gets in and the ice comes back quickly.
  3. Clear the drain hole After defrosting, with the plug still out: if there is a visible drain hole in the floor or back wall, clear it with warm water. If the drain is behind the evaporator cover, leave it to a technician.

When to stop and call a technician

  • The door seal needs replacing
  • A no-frost freezer is icing up — the technician tests the heater, defrost thermostat and timer before replacing anything
  • The ice returns within hours of defrosting
  • There is water on the floor all the time
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: Chest FreezerUpright FreezerNo-Frost Deep FreezerDefrost Deep Freezer

Defrost heater failure (no-frost)

Medium Ice on the evaporator of a no-frost freezer? It may be the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat or the timer — a technician confirms the part by testing first.

In a no-frost freezer, the defrost heater under the evaporator switches on automatically every few hours of running to melt the frost. If it fails, ice builds up on the evaporator (not on the walls) and blocks the airflow, so some sections stay cold while others warm up, and eventually cooling fails. The same symptom can come from the defrost thermostat or the timer/control board, so the technician tests before replacing anything — with an original or compatible part, depending on the model.

Symptoms

  • Ice on the evaporator only (not on the walls)
  • Some sections stay cold while others warm up
  • A high electricity bill
  • The internal fan makes an odd noise (it is hitting ice)
  • Weak cold airflow from the vents
  • After a manual defrost the freezer works well for only a couple of days

Likely causes

  1. A broken heater element (the most common cause)
  2. A cracked heater tube
  3. A disconnected heater lead
  4. A faulty defrost thermostat (bi-metal switch)
  5. A heater burnt out by voltage spikes
  6. A heater at the end of its life

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. Defrost by hand for now Unplug the freezer, move the food and let the ice melt on its own, without sharp tools (see the steps under "Heavy ice build-up"). This restores cooling temporarily until the technician arrives.

When to stop and call a technician

  • Any suspected defrost-system fault — call a technician
  • The technician tests the heater, defrost thermostat and timer before replacing anything, then runs a full defrost cycle after fitting the part
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: No-Frost Deep FreezerUpright Freezer

Freezer door not sealing

Simple Door or lid not closing tightly? A worn seal or loose hinges let the cold escape and push up the bill — and the fix is usually simple.

A worn seal on the door (or the lid on a chest freezer) is one of the most common causes of weak cooling and a higher bill: warm, humid air gets in, the compressor runs longer and frost forms around the edge. Seals wear with age and use, and sometimes the problem is loose hinges or weak lid springs. Replacing a seal is simple and inexpensive.

Symptoms

  • The door or lid does not close fully
  • The seal is cracked or hardened
  • Frost around the edge of the door
  • The door sags or is loose on its hinges
  • A high electricity bill
  • The compressor runs constantly
  • The door no longer swings shut by itself (uprights)
  • Condensation around the outside of the door

Likely causes

  1. A worn or cracked seal (the most common cause)
  2. Loose hinges
  3. A door bent by being forced open
  4. Weak lid springs (chest freezers) or a faulty self-closing mechanism (uprights)
  5. Loose hinge screws

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. The paper test Close the door on an ordinary sheet of paper and pull it out; repeat at several points on all four sides. If it slides out easily anywhere, the seal is not closing at that point.
  2. Clean the seal Wash the seal with warm water and washing-up liquid, then dry it. Built-up grease and dirt sometimes stop it closing properly.
  3. Check the hinges If the hinges are loose, tightening the screws often fixes it. If a hinge is broken or the door is bent, leave it to a technician.

When to stop and call a technician

  • The seal needs replacing
  • A hinge is broken
  • The door is bent and needs adjusting
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: Chest FreezerUpright FreezerNo-Frost Deep FreezerDefrost Deep Freezer

Noisy compressor

Medium Loud humming or metallic knocking from the freezer? The compressor mounts may be loose, a pipe may touch the cabinet, the freezer may not be level, or the compressor is wearing out.

A healthy compressor hums quietly. If the noise becomes loud, or there is knocking and vibration, the usual causes are loose bolts or worn rubber on the compressor mounts, a pipe or metal part touching it, a freezer that is not level, or a compressor nearing the end of its life.

Symptoms

  • A very loud hum
  • A metallic knocking sound
  • The cabinet itself vibrates
  • A rubbing sound from the back
  • The compressor sound cuts in and out
  • A loud click when the compressor starts or stops

Likely causes

  1. Loose compressor mounting bolts
  2. A compressor nearing the end of its life
  3. A metal object touching the compressor
  4. Worn rubber mounts
  5. Gas lines touching the cabinet
  6. A worn start relay
  7. The freezer is not standing level

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. Check the clearance Make sure the freezer is not touching the wall or furniture, and leave space around it on all sides (see the manual).
  2. Level the freezer Use a spirit level and adjust the feet until the freezer stands level — a tilt increases vibration.

When to stop and call a technician

  • Any unusual compressor noise — call a technician
  • The compressor mounts need tightening or replacing — they sit inside the compressor compartment
  • The gas lines need repositioning — do not bend them by hand
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: Chest FreezerUpright FreezerNo-Frost Deep FreezerDefrost Deep Freezer

Water in or under the freezer

Simple Water inside or under the freezer? Usually a blocked drain, a sweating door seal or defrost water — unplug it before any cleaning.

If water collects in the bottom of the freezer or on the floor around it, the usual causes are a blocked drain (in no-frost models the defrost water cannot drain away), a worn door seal letting in humid air that condenses, or a lot of water from a manual defrost. On a chest freezer, make sure the drain plug is back in after defrosting.

Symptoms

  • Water in the bottom of the freezer
  • Water on the floor around the freezer
  • Ice building up under the evaporator
  • Condensation on the outside of the door
  • A frozen drain hole
  • A wet patch under the freezer that never dries

Likely causes

  1. A drain blocked with dirt or ice (the most common cause)
  2. A drain tube that has slipped out of place
  3. A worn seal causing condensation
  4. A lot of water from a manual defrost
  5. A full defrost-water tray (on some models)
  6. A tilted freezer sending defrost water the wrong way

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. Unplug it first Before any cleaning, unplug the freezer, then mop up the water and keep it away from the socket and the cable.
  2. Test the visible drain hole If there is a visible drain hole in the back wall or the floor, pour in a little warm water; if it drains away the drain is clear, if it stands it is blocked. If the drain is behind the evaporator cover, leave it to a technician.

When to stop and call a technician

  • The drain is completely blocked or sits behind the evaporator cover
  • Large amounts of water are coming from the back of the freezer
  • Water is near the socket or the cable — keep it unplugged
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: Chest FreezerUpright FreezerNo-Frost Deep Freezer

Freezer too cold

Medium Food frozen rock-hard and the compressor never stops? Usually the thermostat is on its coldest setting or has failed, or fast-freeze has been left on.

If the freezer runs much colder than needed (well below -18°C, with the compressor never cycling off), start with the settings: the thermostat may be on its coldest position or fast-freeze may have been left on. If the settings are right, the thermostat, its sensor or the control board is probably not switching the compressor off on time — which means a higher bill and extra wear on the compressor.

Symptoms

  • Food frozen harder than usual (hard to break)
  • The temperature is far below -18°C
  • Unusually heavy frost
  • The electricity bill has suddenly gone up
  • The compressor runs constantly and never stops

Likely causes

  1. A faulty thermostat that does not switch the compressor off (the most common cause)
  2. The thermostat sensor has moved out of position
  3. The thermostat is set to the coldest position
  4. A faulty electronic control board (newer models)
  5. Fast-freeze left switched on
  6. A thermostat knob broken internally

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. Adjust the thermostat Set the thermostat to a middle position (or -18°C on digital models) and switch off fast-freeze if it is on. Wait a few hours, then check the temperature with a thermometer.

When to stop and call a technician

  • The temperature is still far too low after adjusting
  • The thermostat needs replacing
  • The compressor runs non-stop
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: Chest FreezerUpright FreezerNo-Frost Deep FreezerDefrost Deep Freezer

Thermostat failure

Medium Unstable temperature, with the freezer too cold or too warm? It may be the thermostat or its sensor — replaced with an original or compatible part and a 6-month written warranty.

The thermostat switches the compressor on and off to hold the set temperature. When it fails, the freezer either does not get cold enough or gets too cold and never cycles off. Testing and replacing it is a straightforward job for a technician.

Symptoms

  • The temperature is unstable
  • The freezer is either too cold or too warm
  • The compressor switches on and off at random
  • The thermostat knob is loose
  • Irregular clicks from the thermostat
  • The display shows the wrong temperature
  • The freezer goes into defrost at the wrong times (no-frost models)

Likely causes

  1. A failed thermostat sensor
  2. A worn bi-metal strip inside a mechanical thermostat
  3. A fault in the electronic thermostat or control board
  4. A wire disconnected from the thermostat
  5. A broken or kinked capillary tube (the sensing bulb)
  6. A broken knob leaving the thermostat at a random setting

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. Check the setting Set the thermostat to a middle position (or -18°C on digital models) and wait a few hours before judging. Try another setting if the temperature is still wrong.

When to stop and call a technician

  • The setting is right but the temperature is still wrong
  • The thermostat needs replacing
  • The capillary tube is broken
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: Chest FreezerUpright FreezerNo-Frost Deep FreezerDefrost Deep Freezer

Sudden jump in the electricity bill

Medium Bill gone up and the freezer running non-stop? Usually the door seal, poor ventilation around the cabinet, or a refrigerant leak.

If the electricity bill jumps for no obvious reason, the deep freezer may be the cause because it runs all day. Common causes: a worn door seal (the compressor runs longer to make up for it), poor ventilation or dust on the condenser, a spot next to a heat source, or a refrigerant leak.

Symptoms

  • The electricity bill has suddenly gone up
  • The compressor runs constantly
  • The door does not close tightly
  • The freezer goes into defrost very often (no-frost models)

Likely causes

  1. A worn door seal (the most common cause)
  2. Dust on the condenser, or the freezer pushed against the wall (the heat cannot escape)
  3. A refrigerant leak
  4. The freezer stands near a heat source
  5. So full that air cannot circulate or the door does not close
  6. The defrost system running more often than it should
  7. A compressor nearing the end of its life

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. Let the condenser breathe Leave space on all sides of the freezer. Warm side walls are normal on most chest freezers because the condenser is built into the cabinet. If your model has an exposed condenser at the back or underneath, unplug it first and clean it with a soft brush or a vacuum cleaner.
  2. Check the door seal Do the paper test (explained under "Freezer door not sealing"). Replacing a worn seal saves a noticeable amount of electricity.
  3. Check where it stands Keep the freezer away from the cooker, direct sun and other heat sources.

When to stop and call a technician

  • The bill is still high after these steps
  • You suspect a refrigerant leak
  • The compressor runs non-stop
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: Chest FreezerUpright FreezerNo-Frost Deep FreezerDefrost Deep Freezer

Freezer not turning on

Medium No light and no sound at all? Start with the socket, the breaker and the cable — and if the breaker trips again, leave the freezer unplugged and call a technician.

If the freezer shows no sign of life (dark display, silent compressor, no interior light), the problem is usually the power supply: a tripped breaker, a faulty socket, a damaged cable, or an internal fuse or control board.

Symptoms

  • The display is dark
  • No compressor sound
  • The interior light does not come on
  • The house breaker has tripped
  • The socket is not working
  • The cable is visibly cut or cracked
  • A click when plugged in, then silence

Likely causes

  1. A tripped breaker
  2. A damaged power cable
  3. A faulty socket
  4. A blown internal fuse
  5. A faulty control board
  6. A blown thermal safety fuse
  7. Burnt internal wiring

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. Check the socket and the breaker Try another appliance in the same socket. If the breaker has tripped, reset it once only; if it trips again, unplug the freezer and call a technician. Keep away from the socket if your hands or the floor are wet.
  2. Look at the cable Unplug the freezer and inspect the cable by eye only. If it is cut, cracked, or the plug looks scorched, do not use it — it must be replaced.

When to stop and call a technician

  • These checks did not help
  • The breaker trips every time the freezer is plugged in
  • An internal fuse or the control board needs checking
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: Chest FreezerUpright FreezerNo-Frost Deep FreezerDefrost Deep Freezer

Food spoiling in the freezer

Technician Food changing taste or colour, or thawing and refreezing? That is a temperature swing — from the thermostat, the door seal or power cuts.

If food spoils even though the freezer is running, the temperature is probably swinging: the freezer cools, warms up, then cools again. The ice crystals in the food melt and re-form, which ruins texture and taste. Causes include the thermostat, the door seal, frequent door opening, power cuts or a refrigerant leak.

Symptoms

  • Food changing colour (freezer burn)
  • A bad smell from the freezer
  • Food softening and then refreezing
  • Large ice crystals inside food bags
  • Condensation inside containers
  • The freezer goes into defrost very often (no-frost models)

Likely causes

  1. Temperature swings from a faulty thermostat
  2. A worn door seal
  3. Opening the door too often
  4. An overlong defrost cycle
  5. A refrigerant leak causing intermittent cooling
  6. Frequent power cuts
  7. The compressor cycling abnormally

Safe checks before you call a technician

  1. Measure with a thermometer Leave a freezer thermometer inside for a full day and watch the reading. If it swings by more than about 3 degrees, there is a problem worth checking.
  2. Check the door seal Do the paper test (explained under "Freezer door not sealing"). If the seal is worn, replacing it stops the swings.

When to stop and call a technician

  • The temperature keeps swinging
  • You suspect the thermostat
  • There may be a refrigerant leak
Call now 16062

Deep Freezer types where this fault is common: Chest FreezerUpright FreezerNo-Frost Deep FreezerDefrost Deep Freezer

How We Work

  1. 01

    Call or WhatsApp

    Reach us on 16062 or WhatsApp 01050887010, and describe the problem in a minute.

  2. 02

    Your visit is scheduled

    Technician visits daily from 9 AM to 9 PM — at the earliest available slot for your area.

  3. 03

    Diagnosis + written quote

    Instrument-based diagnosis and a written quote — set after inspection, before any work.

  4. 04

    The repair

    Original or compatible replacement parts, depending on the part and model, with a test run before handover.

  5. 05

    6-month written warranty

    Official invoice + 6-month written warranty on the repair and the replaced part.

Book your deep freezer service

at the earliest available slot for your area

  • 6-month written warranty on the repair and the replaced part
  • Technician visits daily from 9 AM to 9 PM
Call now16062

Your service details

We save your request and call you to confirm the appointment; WhatsApp opens with the details too.

Deep Freezer Repair — Frequently Asked Questions

The questions that come to mind before requesting deep freezer repair.

How much does deep freezer repair cost?

The price depends on the fault and the part: a door seal or start relay costs far less than a leak repair with a gas recharge, or a compressor replacement. The technician inspects and gives you a written quote before any work, with an official invoice and a 6-month written warranty.

When can a technician come?

Visits run daily from 9 AM to 9 PM, at the earliest available slot for your area. The 16062 hotline answers 24 hours a day and books your visit.

Do you repair every deep freezer brand?

We repair most deep freezer brands sold in Egypt, such as Kiriazi, Alaska, White Point, Electrostar and Beko — pick yours in the brands section on this page. Parts are original or compatible, depending on the part and model.

Is there a warranty on the repair?

Yes — a 6-month written warranty on the repair and the replaced part, with an official invoice.

What should I do before switching on a new freezer, or after moving one?

Let it stand upright for a few hours before switching on (see your model manual) so the compressor oil settles, level it, and leave space around it for ventilation. Run it empty until it reaches freezing temperature, then load the food.

Hotline 16062 answers calls around the clock

Need deep freezer service now?

A specialist deep freezer technician at the earliest available slot for your area, a written price before the repair, and a 6-month written warranty.

Call — 16062 01050887010
← All devices
Call us 16062 Calls 24h