Samsung Repair

Food in the freezer is frozen, but vegetables and water in the fridge are not cold.

Possible causes

• Vents inside the fridge blocked by food
• The fridge fan stopped
• Ice on the fridge evaporator from a failed defrost
• The temperature sensor

Solution: Clear the vents, open the door less, and check the temperature setting. If it does not improve within a day, the fan and defrost need checking. Unplugging for a day with the door open only melts the ice for a while.

The fridge has power but the compressor does not run, or the display shows OF OF.

Possible causes

• Display mode switched on in models with a display
• Low mains voltage
• The inverter board
• The compressor

Solution: If it shows OF OF, hold the top two buttons together for 5 to 8 seconds until it chimes. With no display, or if the problem continues, the technician measures the voltage and the board before judging the compressor.

A growing layer of ice on the back wall of a No Frost fridge that should not build ice.

Possible causes

• A door not closing well or a worn seal
• The defrost heater
• The defrost sensor

Solution: Make sure the door closes by itself and the seal is not torn. If the ice keeps returning, the defrost cycle has a fault and the technician measures the heater and sensor.

Water collecting at the bottom of the fridge under the drawers, or a puddle in front.

Possible causes

• A blocked defrost-water drain hole
• The fridge tilting forward
• The evaporation tray at the back out of place

Solution: Clear the drain hole with warm water and a soft wire, and adjust the feet so the fridge leans slightly back. If water comes from the freezer itself, the drain tube may be frozen.

A low, constant compressor sound, without the on-off cycling of older fridges.

Possible causes

• Normal for an inverter compressor
• Frequent door opening or hot food put inside
• A dusty condenser at the back

Solution: An inverter compressor runs at low speed for long periods instead of switching on and off. It is only a problem if cooling is weak too; then clean the back and book an inspection.

Dust on the condenser makes the compressor work harder in summer. Unplug it first.

Do not pack food against the air vents inside the fridge and freezer.

No, Samsung says this is a normal self-check after power returns. If the icons keep flashing and a code appears, note it down.

The board is the part most affected by voltage swings. If your power cuts in and out often or drops in summer, a stabiliser lowers the risk of damaging it.

The washer stops before spinning with water inside, and the door stays locked.

Possible causes

• A pump filter blocked by coins, buttons or lint
• A kinked or blocked drain hose
• A blocked wall drain
• The drain pump

Solution: Empty the water through the emergency hose, then unscrew and wash the filter. Straighten the drain hose and check the wall pipe takes water. If the filter is clean and the code returns, the pump needs measuring.

The programme starts with no sound of water coming in, or water trickles in and the code appears.

Possible causes

• A closed tap or low water pressure
• An inlet mesh blocked by sand or scale
• A kinked inlet hose
• The water inlet valve

Solution: Open the tap fully. Then close it, unplug the washer, undo the hose at the back and clean the mesh. If water runs well from the tap and the code still appears, the valve needs checking.

The washer tries to spin several times and slows down again, or moves across the floor.

Possible causes

• Laundry bunched on one side
• A single heavy item such as a blanket or rug
• An uneven floor or unlevelled feet
• Transit bolts still fitted on a new washer

Solution: UB is not a fault: untangle and spread the laundry, add two towels to a single heavy item, and level the feet. If it shakes even when empty, the shock absorbers or bearings need checking.

The programme will not start and the code shows, or the cycle has ended but the door stays locked.

Possible causes

• Clothes caught between the door and the seal
• Child lock switched on
• Water still in the drum
• The electric door lock

Solution: Clear any clothes from the seal, close the door until it clicks, and check the child lock. If water is inside, deal with draining first. If the code stays with an empty drum, the lock needs checking.

The code appears mid-wash and the washer waits for the foam to settle, so the programme runs much longer.

Possible causes

• Too much detergent
• Detergent made for twin-tubs, not front-loaders
• Powder build-up in the filter or hose

Solution: Let the washer finish on its own. Afterwards run drum clean, or an empty 90 °C cotton cycle without detergent, clean the pump filter, and use less detergent next time.

The washer stops mid-programme, often at times of heavy load on the grid in summer.

Possible causes

• Low or fluctuating mains voltage
• The washer on a power strip or extension with other appliances
• A loose or overheating plug or socket

Solution: Plug the washer into its own socket without a strip, unplug it for a minute and restart. If the code keeps coming back, the voltage needs measuring when it happens, and a stabiliser protects the board.

Clean them every month or two, and check pockets before washing; coins are the usual cause of 5C.

Run it with an empty drum to remove the detergent residue that causes foam and smells.

After the last wash, so the seal and drawer dry and do not go mouldy.

It means the water is not draining. Empty it through the emergency hose, clean the pump filter and check the drain hose is not kinked. If the code returns with a clean filter, the pump needs checking.

Usually not. Check the transit bolts were removed if the washer is new, the feet are firm and the floor level, and avoid washing one heavy item alone. If the drum knocks when empty, the shock absorbers need inspecting.

You hear the channel or app clearly, but there is no picture at all.

Possible causes

• The wrong source, or brightness turned right down
• Energy-saving mode
• The LED backlight strips
• The power board or T-Con board

Solution: Change the input with Source, and check brightness and energy saving. Then in a dark room shine a phone torch close to the screen: if you can see a faint picture, the backlight is at fault, and that is repaired without replacing the panel.

The light under the screen keeps blinking, with no picture or sound.

Possible causes

• The power board
• The main board
• A short in the backlight that trips the power board

Solution: Unplug for 30 seconds and try another socket. If the light still flashes, Samsung treats it as a hardware fault needing inspection, so do not keep plugging it in and out.

The red light is steady, and the remote does nothing.

Possible causes

• Remote batteries, or the remote not paired
• The remote sensor on the TV
• The power board

Solution: Turn it on with the TV's own button. If it starts, the remote is the problem: replace the batteries and pair it again. If the button does not work either, the fault is inside the TV.

YouTube or Netflix close by themselves, or the menus are very slow.

Possible causes

• A weak connection or the router
• TV software needing an update
• Corrupted Smart Hub data

Solution: Test the connection on another device and update the TV software. If it continues, run Reset Smart Hub from Self Diagnosis; the default PIN is 0000, and this step deletes apps and accounts.

Vertical or horizontal lines, or a dark area, that stay put even in the menus.

Possible causes

• The panel cable or T-Con board
• A knock or pressure on the panel
• A fault in the panel itself

Solution: Run the picture test from Self Diagnosis: if the lines show in the test, the fault is in the TV, not the receiver or cable. The technician determines whether it is a board or the panel, because a panel can cost close to a new TV.

If sound works but screen is black, likely T-CON Board or Mini-LED Driver issue. Good news: replacement is price after inspection — much cheaper than buying a new TV (price after inspection+). Call Samsung TV service at 16062.

في معظم الحالات نعم، السبب فشل لوحة Mini-LED Driver أو T-CON (السعر بعد الكشفنيه استبدال). لو لوحة العرض نفسها (Display Panel) تالفة، التكلفة عالية جداً. الفني عندنا يفحص بدقة قبل تحديد التكلفة.

Symptoms are unified but diagnosis methods differ. Neo QLED 2022+ has advanced Self Diagnosis in settings. Older models rely on Standby LED blinks. All faults above apply to Neo QLED, QLED, The Frame, and Smart TV.

Yes, we service all Samsung TV models: Neo QLED 4K/8K, QLED, The Frame, Smart TV, OLED S95C. Our expertise in The Frame is special — its wall mount with hidden cable needs a specialist.

Power that cuts and returns quickly wears the power board; unplug the TV when cuts are frequent.

Without spraying directly on the screen and without pressing on the panel.

If the sound works and you can see a faint picture with a phone torch in the dark, the panel works and the problem is the backlight. If there is no image even with the torch, the check starts with the boards.

It returns Smart Hub to factory state and deletes downloaded apps and accounts, so have your account passwords ready first.

The lamp is on, the plate turns and the timer counts down, but the food does not heat.

Possible causes

• The magnetron
• The high-voltage diode or capacitor
• The high-voltage transformer
• A worn door switch

Solution: Heat a cup of water for a minute on full power to confirm. If the water stays cold, it is a high-voltage fault, and only a technician should touch it.

The microwave heats but the plate stays still, so food heats on one side.

Possible causes

• The plate or roller ring not seated
• Food residue under the ring
• A broken centre coupler
• The turntable motor

Solution: Take out the plate and ring, wash them, clean the track, and seat the plate correctly on the centre coupler. If it still does not turn, the turntable motor is replaced and is not costly.

Flashes or popping while heating, sometimes with a burning smell.

Possible causes

• Metal or a plate with a gold rim
• Burnt food residue on the walls
• A burnt or dirty waveguide (mica) cover inside
• Peeling interior coating

Solution: Stop at once and unplug. Remove any metal and clean the inside well. If sparks come from the side cover or the coating is peeling, the cover is replaced before the magnetron is damaged.

The microwave beeps or shows SE or C-d0, and pressing any button does nothing.

Possible causes

• A key held down for more than 10 seconds
• Grease or moisture on the touch panel
• Child lock
• The keypad

Solution: Unplug it, wipe the panel with a barely damp cloth, wait a little and restart. If the code returns, the keypad or its cable needs replacing.

No display, no lamp, no sound at all.

Possible causes

• The socket or plug
• A fuse inside the microwave
• A door switch that blew the fuse

Solution: Try another appliance in the same socket. If the socket is fine, the fuse inside has gone, and a blown fuse usually has a door switch or other fault behind it that must be found before replacing it.

Grease that burns onto the walls and the side cover is the first cause of sparking.

Do not stack things on top or push it against the wall; blocked vents trigger the high-temperature code.

SE or C-d0 means a key stayed pressed for a long time. Unplug, wipe the panel and plug it back in. If it reappears without anyone touching it, the keypad is the cause.

On larger grill models it is usually worth it. On an old 23 litre solo, the technician gives you the cost so you can compare with a new one before work starts.

The unit runs normally and the display shows CF.

Possible causes

• A filter cleaning reminder

Solution: Clean or replace the filters, then clear the reminder with the remote. It is not a fault.

Air comes out but is not cold, or the room never reaches the set temperature.

Possible causes

• Clogged filters
• A dirty or boxed-in outdoor unit
• Low voltage at peak hours
• Low refrigerant from a leak

Solution: Clean the filters and clear the area round the outdoor unit. If it still does not cool, the technician measures voltage and pressure, and low refrigerant means a leak to repair before recharging.

Drips on the wall or floor under the unit while it runs.

Possible causes

• A blocked drain hose, or one that does not run downhill
• A dirty filter letting the evaporator ice and then melt

Solution: Clean the filter and follow the drain hose to its end. If the tray inside is blocked, it is cleared during a unit service.

The display alternates C1 or E1 with a number such as 21, 22, 54 or 63, and the unit stops.

Possible causes

• The room or coil temperature sensor
• The indoor fan not turning
• Board memory data

Solution: Switch off the breaker for two minutes and restart. If the code returns, Samsung says these codes need a technician, so note the number before you call.

Every two weeks in summer, in lukewarm water, and let them dry in the shade.

The evaporator inside and the condenser outside, along with the drain hose.

General parts such as capacitors, sensors and motors have compatible replacements. The electronic board depends on the exact model, so send a photo of the label before the inspection so we can check whether the part is available.

The cycle ends on time or runs long, and the clothes are still damp.

Possible causes

• A blocked lint filter
• Lint on the heat exchanger
• An overload, or clothes not spun well
• The humidity or temperature sensor

Solution: Clean the lint filter and exchanger, reduce the load, and spin clothes at the highest speed in the washer. If it continues with everything clean, the sensors need measuring.

The dryer stops mid-cycle with a full water tank or water not draining.

Possible causes

• A full water tank
• A kinked drain hose if plumbed in
• The water pump

Solution: Empty the tank and push it fully home, and straighten the drain hose if plumbed in. If the tank is empty and the code returns, the pump needs checking.

The dryer stops with a hot body, or the code appears mid-cycle.

Possible causes

• A blocked lint filter or exchanger
• The dryer in an enclosed space without ventilation
• The compressor or its wiring on heat pump models

Solution: Clean the filter and exchanger, leave space around the dryer, and check the breaker. If the code returns, the technician checks the compressor and wiring.

A blocked filter lengthens the cycle and heats the compressor.

Clean it regularly on condenser and heat pump models, or when the display asks.

The machine waits for the water level to fall, sees no change, and stops with the code.

Possible causes

• A blocked base filter
• A kinked drain hose
• Bones, labels or glass at the pump
• The drain pump

Solution: Clean the filter, straighten the hose, and look in the sump under the filter for anything stuck. If the pump does not run at all (5C2), the technician checks it.

The cycle starts with a short drain, then little or no water enters and the tub stays dry.

Possible causes

• A closed tap
• A kinked inlet hose or blocked mesh
• The inlet valve

Solution: Open the tap, make sure the house has water at good pressure, and straighten the hose. If all is fine and the code stays, the valve needs measuring.

The machine stops and keeps draining, and there may be water on the floor.

Possible causes

• Foam from the wrong detergent
• A dirty door seal or debris on it
• An internal leak from a hose or joint

Solution: Turn off the tap and the power. Clean the seal and check the detergent used. If the code returns once the base is dry, the leak is inside and needs a technician.

Washing finishes but drying stops, or the inside is very hot and steamy.

Possible causes

• A covered outer vent
• Tall plastics pressed against the inner vent
• Supply water that is too hot
• The drying fan or the heater

Solution: Keep the vent clear and do not load plastics against it, then unplug for 5 minutes and try a normal cycle. If the code returns, the fan and heater need checking.

Rinse it every week, and scrape bones and large scraps off before loading.

Salt protects the heater from scale, especially with hard water.

The vacuum sounds normal but does not pick up dust, or suction drops after a few minutes.

Possible causes

• A full bag or bin
• A clogged motor or HEPA filter
• Something stuck in the hose or tube
• A split hose

Solution: Change the bag or empty the bin, tap out or wash the washable filters, and clear the hose gently with a stick. If suction stays weak with clean filters, the motor or seals are checked.

The vacuum cuts out mid-use and restarts once it cools, or a hot smell comes from the exhaust.

Possible causes

• A blockage that overheats the motor
• Clogged filters
• Worn motor carbon brushes
• The motor itself

Solution: Unplug it, let it cool, clean the filters and clear any blockage. A real burning smell or sparks from the vents mean stop using it until it is inspected.

You press the rewind button and the cord does not go back, or only goes halfway.

Possible causes

• A twisted cord
• The cord reel spring

Solution: Pull the cord out fully and untwist it, then press the button while guiding the cord. If the reel does not pull at all, the spring is replaced.

On a cordless Jet stick, the display shows a clog, a stuck brush or a missing filter icon, and if all three turn red the vacuum stops.

Possible causes

• A blocked bin, tube or nozzle
• Hair or thread wrapped round the brush
• The washable filter not fitted or missing

Solution: Empty the bin, wash the filter and metal mesh and let them dry, cut hair off the brush, and refit the filter until it locks. If the icons stay with everything clean, the sensors or battery need checking.

Do not wait until it is completely full; suction drops well before that.

Tap them out monthly, and wash the washable ones and let them dry for a full day.

No. Fine dust goes straight into the motor and shortens its life, and Jet sticks will not run at all without the filter.