White Point Repair

The programme stops before spinning with the laundry soaked, or the water drains very slowly.

Possible causes

• The pump filter is blocked with coins or lint
• The drain hose is kinked or pushed too far into the pipe
• Too much foam from the wrong detergent
• The drain pump itself

Solution: Unplug the washer, put down a container and a towel, then open and clean the pump filter at the bottom front. Straighten the drain hose. If water still does not drain with a clean filter, the pump needs testing.

The programme starts with a weak or no sound of water, and the washer keeps waiting.

Possible causes

• The tap is closed or water pressure is low
• The mesh in the hose connection is blocked with sand
• The water inlet valve

Solution: Open the tap fully. Close it again, undo the hose at the back and clean the mesh. If pressure is good and water still does not enter, the valve needs testing.

The washer walks across the floor, or a top-loader stops spinning and tries to rebalance several times.

Possible causes

• Laundry bunched to one side or a single heavy item
• Unlevelled feet or a sloping floor
• Transit bolts still in a new washer
• The shock absorbers or springs

Solution: Spread the laundry and level the feet with a spirit level. On a new washer, make sure the transit bolts were removed. If banging continues with an even load, the shock absorbers need checking.

The programme has ended but the lock light stays on, or the door will not open at all.

Possible causes

• The safety lock stays on for a short while after the last spin
• There is still water in the drum
• The electric door lock

Solution: Wait a few minutes after the programme ends. If there is water, run a drain cycle or clean the filter. Do not force the door; if it stays locked with an empty drum, the lock needs a technician.

No response from the buttons, or the washer stops mid-programme after a power cut.

Possible causes

• The socket or plug
• Weak or fluctuating voltage
• The control board on inverter models

Solution: Try another appliance in the same socket, and unplug the washer for two minutes before restarting. If it keeps happening, the technician measures the voltage and the board, and may suggest a voltage stabiliser.

Clean it every month or two, and check pockets before washing for coins and tissues.

On models with Drum Clean, run it with an empty drum to clear detergent residue.

After the last wash, so the seal dries and does not smell.

On many display models the child lock is switched on and off by holding two buttons together for a few seconds; those buttons carry a small lock symbol. If you cannot find the symbol, the manual shows the method for your model.

Not always. Models with Fuzzy Logic adjust the water to the load, and if the laundry is bunched they try to correct it. If it happens with a light, even load, the level sensor needs checking.

Food in the freezer is frozen solid, while vegetables and milk in the fridge spoil.

Possible causes

• Ice blocking the air duct between freezer and fridge
• The defrost heater, its sensor or the timer
• The freezer fan
• Food blocking the vents inside

Solution: Move food away from the vents. If you see ice on the back wall of the freezer, empty the fridge, put towels underneath and switch it off for a full day with the doors open. If the problem returns after a few days, the defrost cycle needs a technician.

A layer of ice on the back or around the drawers, even though the fridge is No Frost.

Possible causes

• The door does not close properly or the seal is worn
• Opening the door often in hot weather
• A fault in the defrost cycle

Solution: Clean the seal with soapy water and make sure the door is not catching on a drawer. If ice returns quickly with a good seal, the heater or sensor needs testing.

A small pool of water in the bottom of the fridge or in front of it.

Possible causes

• The defrost drain channel is blocked
• The fridge is not level
• The evaporation tray at the back is cracked or out of place

Solution: Clear the drain hole behind the crisper with warm water and a soft wire. Adjust the feet so the fridge tilts slightly backwards. If the water comes from the back, the tray needs checking.

A fan that rattles, or a click every time the compressor starts.

Possible causes

• The fridge touching the wall or not level
• Ice touching the fan blade
• The compressor relay or the board

Solution: Pull the fridge away from the wall and level it. If the noise comes from inside the freezer, it is usually ice on the fan. Repeated clicking without the compressor starting needs a technician.

The inside light is off or on, but there is no cooling and no compressor sound.

Possible causes

• The socket or plug
• The inverter board hit by the power surge
• The compressor

Solution: Test the socket with another appliance, then unplug the fridge for 10 minutes and restart it. If nothing happens, the technician measures the board before the compressor. Refrigerant work or a compressor change is for a technician only.

With warm water and mild soap, removing any crumbs that stop it closing properly.

Do not store boxes behind or on top of the fridge, and dust the condenser if it is exposed.

If it was moved lying down or tilted, leave it upright for a few hours before switching on so the compressor oil settles. Do not load food until it reaches temperature.

Either leave it running on its normal setting, or empty it, switch it off, clean and dry it, and leave the doors ajar so mould and smells do not build up. Never close the doors on a fridge that is switched off.

Meat is not frozen as before, especially in the top drawers or in hot weather.

Possible causes

• The door does not seal properly or the gasket is worn
• Not enough ventilation around the unit
• The circulation fan is not running
• A refrigerant leak or a weak compressor

Solution: Check the door and seal, and move the freezer away from the wall. Open the door and listen for the fan inside. If the fan runs and freezing is still weak, the technician measures the pressures; refrigerant must not be touched without a technician.

The unit is No Frost, yet a layer of ice grows day by day.

Possible causes

• Moist air entering through a door left ajar
• The defrost heater or sensor
• A blocked defrost drain

Solution: Move the food somewhere cold, switch the freezer off with the door open until the ice melts, and put towels underneath. If the ice returns within days, the defrost cycle needs checking.

The unit beeps or shows a warning light even after you close the door.

Possible causes

• A drawer or bag stopping the door closing fully
• High inside temperature after loading a lot of warm food
• The door switch

Solution: Close the door firmly and wait a while after loading. Do not put hot food inside. If the alarm continues at a normal temperature, the door switch needs checking.

The display is off or the compressor will not start after the power returns.

Possible causes

• The socket or plug
• The control board
• The compressor relay

Solution: Test the socket with another appliance, and wait a few minutes after the power returns before restarting. If it is still dead, checks start with the board and relay.

Cold air is spread by a fan, and bags pressed against the back stop it reaching the drawers.

Hot food raises the inside temperature and keeps the compressor running without a break.

Usually not. In many units the condenser sits inside the side walls, so heat comes out there. The concern is if the heat suddenly rises along with weaker freezing, which needs checking.

The maker suggests -18°C on units with digital control, which is enough to keep food frozen.

The flame holds while you press the knob, and goes out once you let go.

Possible causes

• Not holding the knob down for long enough
• The safety sensor tip is dirty or out of position
• A worn sensor or its valve

Solution: Press the knob and keep holding it for about 10 seconds after the burner lights. Clean the sensor tip next to the burner with a dry brush and make sure the burner cap is seated correctly. If it still goes out, a technician needs to replace the sensor or its valve; do not open any gas connection yourself.

The auto ignition is silent, or it clicks but the gas does not catch.

Possible causes

• The plug is not in the socket
• The ignition electrode is wet or dirty
• Blocked burner ports
• The ignition switch or module

Solution: Make sure the cooker is plugged in. If something was spilled, let the burners dry. Clean the electrode and the burner ports with a dry brush. If there is no click at all, the ignition module needs a technician. You can light the burner with a match until it is repaired: hold the lit match to the burner first, then press and turn the knob.

The oven goes out after a while, or food cooks on one side only.

Possible causes

• The oven safety sensor
• The thermostat
• The oven fan on models that have one

Solution: Keep the oven knob pressed for a while after it lights, and do not close the door immediately. If it still goes out or the heat is uneven, the sensor or thermostat needs testing.

The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue, and pans blacken underneath.

Possible causes

• Burner ports blocked with food
• The burner cap not seated correctly
• A jet that does not match the gas type

Solution: Clean the burners and refit them properly. If the cooker was converted between bottled and natural gas, the jets must be changed by a technician. A yellow flame means incomplete combustion, so run the hood and open a window.

Milk and sauce block the ports and wet the electrode, so wipe them once the burners cool.

If it is hard or cracked, it must be replaced with an approved gas hose with the valve closed, then test the joints with soapy water, never with a match. On mains gas, a technician or the gas company should replace it. Keep the hose away from the hot oven body.

It means that if the flame goes out on any burner, the oven or the grill, its gas shuts off by itself. That is why you hold the knob for a few seconds after lighting until the sensor warms up; it is a safety design, not a fault.

You open the door to find water under the filter, sometimes with a smell.

Possible causes

• A blocked filter
• A kinked drain hose behind the machine
• A blocked sink connection
• The drain pump

Solution: Clean the filter, then pull the machine forward a little and straighten the drain hose. If the sink itself drains slowly, the plumbing is the problem. If all is clear and water still stands, the pump needs checking.

Food left on the plates, especially on the top rack.

Possible causes

• Blocked spray-arm holes
• Loading that stops an arm turning
• A quick programme on heavily soiled dishes
• The water not heating

Solution: Remove the spray arms and clear their holes with a toothpick. Load plates facing the centre. Use the intensive programme for heavily soiled dishes. If the water is lukewarm at the end of the cycle, the heater needs testing.

A white layer or spots left after the glasses dry.

Possible causes

• Softener salt has run out or is set wrongly
• Rinse aid has run out
• Too much detergent

Solution: Fill the salt container and rinse aid, and set the water hardness from the manual. If the film wipes off with vinegar it is scale; if not, it may be etching in the glass itself.

Wetness under the door or around the machine after a cycle.

Possible causes

• Foam from hand washing-up liquid used by mistake
• A dirty or torn door seal
• The machine not level
• A leak from an internal hose

Solution: Close the tap and switch off the power. If washing-up liquid was used, air the machine and run a rinse only. Clean the seal and level the feet. If the leak comes from underneath, a technician has to open it.

Once a week if you use it daily, and scrape food off plates before loading.

Check their levels once a month and refill as soon as the indicator lights, because tap water is hard in many parts of Egypt.

The maker advises against wooden or light plastic items. Wood cracks, and light plastic flips over, fills with water or drops onto the heater.

It will run without salt, but if your water is hard, scale builds up on the heater and glasses. Do not use table salt; use dishwasher salt and put it only in the container in the base.

You open the hot tap and hear the igniter, but the flame does not catch.

Possible causes

• Weak ignition batteries, if your heater uses them
• A closed gas valve or an empty cylinder
• Water pressure too low to start the heater
• The ignition electrode or flame sensor

Solution: Replace the batteries if it has them, make sure the gas is on, and open the tap fully. If water is weak throughout the house, the problem is pressure, not the heater. If all of that is fine and it still will not light, the electrode or sensor needs a technician.

The water is hot for a few minutes, then suddenly turns cold.

Possible causes

• Someone opened another tap and pressure dropped
• Batteries running down
• A safety cut-off shut the gas
• The flame sensor or gas valve

Solution: Close the tap, wait a minute and open it again. Try new batteries. If it keeps going out after a short time with good pressure, the sensor or valve needs checking.

The heater is lit but the water does not get as hot as before.

Possible causes

• The temperature or summer and winter knob set low
• The tap fully open, with more water than the heater can warm
• Scale or soot on the heat exchanger

Solution: Raise the temperature, switch to winter mode, and close the tap slightly. If the display shows a low temperature on every setting, the exchanger needs cleaning by a technician.

A gas smell near the heater, or a yellow, sooty flame inside.

Possible causes

• A loose gas connection
• A blocked flue or one not leading outside
• The heater not set up for your gas type

Solution: Turn off the gas, open the windows and do not use it. This is not a fault to try yourself; a technician must check the connections and flue before any use.

If the heater uses batteries, a weak one delays ignition and makes the heater go out just when you need it most.

Do not hang clothes on the heater or close the nearby window while it runs.

The heaters on the maker's site are gas only. If you have an older electric heater under this name, photograph the label and send it; checks start with the element and thermostat.