Daewoo Repair

The timer counts down and the turntable turns, but food comes out cold.

Possible causes

• The magnetron
• The high-voltage diode or capacitor
• The high-voltage transformer

Solution: This is a high-voltage circuit fault and needs a technician to discharge the capacitor and measure before identifying the part.

No light or display, or the display works but the oven will not start.

Possible causes

• A blown fuse
• The door switches
• The control board

Solution: Try another socket and shut the door firmly. A blown fuse is often caused by a faulty door switch; both are inside the casing and are checked together, so this is a technician's job.

Flashes or a crackling sound while it runs.

Possible causes

• Metal, foil or a plate with a gold rim
• A burnt or greasy cover over the waveguide opening
• Peeling paint inside the cavity

Solution: Stop the oven at once and remove any metal. If the sparking comes from the small cover on the side wall, it needs replacing; running it like that damages the magnetron.

Food heats on one side because the plate is still.

Possible causes

• The plate or roller ring out of place
• The coupler linking the plate to the motor
• The turntable motor

Solution: Refit the ring and plate correctly. If it still does not turn, the turntable motor needs replacing, a quick job for a technician because it means opening the base of the oven.

Microwave heating is fine, but the grill does not brown or the rear fan does not turn.

Possible causes

• The grill heater
• The grill relay on the board
• The convection fan on KOC models

Solution: A technician measures the heater with a meter; if open, it is replaced. If it is fine, the relay or board is next.

Especially the small cover on the side wall; grease on it burns and causes sparks.

Slamming the door wears the switches, which are the usual cause of a blown fuse.

No. That symptom is in the high-voltage circuit, and its capacitor stays charged after unplugging. Diagnosis needs a technician who can discharge it and measure.

It depends on the oven's age and the part price. After measuring, the technician gives you the magnetron and labour cost, and you compare it with a new oven.

Food in the freezer is frozen, but vegetables and water in the fridge are not cold.

Possible causes

• The defrost heater or its sensor, so ice blocks the air duct
• The defrost timer or board
• The freezer fan

Solution: Empty the fridge, put towels underneath and switch it off for a full day with the doors open so the ice melts. If it works for a few days and the problem returns, the defrost circuit needs checking.

A puddle at the bottom of the fridge or dripping outside.

Possible causes

• A blocked or frozen defrost drain
• The tray at the back underneath out of place

Solution: Clear the drain with warm water. If it freezes again within days, the heater on it needs checking.

A click every few minutes from the back, and the whole fridge is not cooling.

Possible causes

• Low voltage
• The compressor relay or overload
• The compressor itself

Solution: Unplug the fridge for half an hour and run it from a socket away from heavy appliances. If the clicking continues, the technician measures voltage and the relay before judging the compressor.

In a No Frost fridge, a layer of ice or frost on the food in the freezer.

Possible causes

• A door seal not closing
• The door opened often or left ajar
• The defrost cycle

Solution: Test the seal with a sheet of paper: shut the door on it and pull; if it slides out easily, the seal needs replacing.

A rubbing or rattling noise from the freezer, or a constant hum.

Possible causes

• The freezer fan blade hitting ice
• The fan motor
• The fridge not level

Solution: If the noise comes from the freezer along with ice, it points back to the defrost problem. The fan motor itself is replaced if it has slowed or hums.

Dust on the condenser makes the compressor run longer and hotter.

Food pressed against the vents cuts cooling to the fridge section even while the freezer works.

Switching off melts the ice blocking the air duct, so cooling returns for a while. If the problem returns within days, the defrost cycle has a fault that needs repairing.

Common parts such as defrost heaters, sensors, fan motors and relays are usually available. A board for a model with a display may take time, and the technician confirms before dismantling anything.

The programme starts but water does not enter or barely trickles, and IE appears after a while.

Possible causes

• A closed tap or low water pressure
• A blocked mesh at the hose connection
• The water inlet valve

Solution: Open the tap fully. Close it, unplug the washer, undo the hose at the back and clean the mesh. If water still does not enter with good pressure, the valve needs checking.

The washer stops with water in the drum and OE appears.

Possible causes

• A kinked or blocked drain hose
• A pump filter blocked by coins or buttons
• The drain pump
• The water level sensor

Solution: Straighten the drain hose and clean the filter. If the pump hums without pumping, or does not run at all, it needs checking.

The washer tries to spin several times and gives up, or moves across the floor.

Possible causes

• Laundry bunched on one side or a single heavy item
• Unlevelled feet
• Transit bolts on a new washer
• Shock absorbers or drum bearings

Solution: Spread the laundry and run a spin on its own, and level the feet. If the washer roars when empty, the bearings need checking.

The washer stops and shows PFE, sometimes with foam visible at the door.

Possible causes

• Too much detergent, or detergent not meant for front-loaders
• A drain hose hung more than one metre above the floor
• A clogged pump filter or a pump that is not working

Solution: Switch the washer off and on, press Spin, then Start. Use less detergent, lower the drain hose if it hangs high, and clean the pump filter. If the code returns, the pump needs checking.

You press Start and the programme does not begin.

Possible causes

• The door not fully closed, or clothes caught in it
• The door lock switch

Solution: Clear any clothes from the seal and shut the door until it clicks. If the code stays, the door lock needs replacing.

The washer keeps refilling because the water level drops, or there is a puddle under it.

Possible causes

• Laundry caught between the seal and the drum
• A torn internal hose or door seal
• A leak at the tub or pump

Solution: Turn off the tap, unplug the washer and check the door seal. If no clothes are caught, the leak is internal and needs a technician.

Hot programmes leave the laundry cold, or the washer stops with an H code.

Possible causes

• A burnt-out or scaled heater
• The temperature sensor
• The heater relay on the board

Solution: This needs the heater and sensor measured by a technician.

Coins and buttons block the pump filter and cause OE. Clean it about once a month.

Ordinary detergent makes too much foam and the washer stops with PFE.

So the seal dries and does not go mouldy.

It means water is not draining. Straighten the drain hose, empty the water and clean the pump filter. If the code returns with a clean filter, the pump or level sensor needs checking.

A very small load, such as one heavy item alone, triggers UE more than a full one. Add a few items and try again. If it persists, the shock absorbers or bearings need checking.

Wait about two minutes after the programme ends. If there is water in the drum, the door will not open until it drains.

The programme ends with the laundry as wet as before, or the machine shows H7.

Possible causes

• The drying heater
• The thermal fuse
• The thermostat

Solution: This needs the heater, fuse and thermostat measured. If the fuse has blown, the technician looks for the cause of overheating before replacing it.

Drying happens but is incomplete, especially with heavy items.

Possible causes

• A load bigger than the drying capacity
• A weak spin before drying
• Lint in the air duct

Solution: Reduce the load and run a high spin before drying. If the load is right and dampness persists, the air duct and fan need internal cleaning by a technician.

A whistle or rubbing noise while drying, or the machine stops with E3.

Possible causes

• The drying fan motor
• Lint built up on the fan

Solution: The fan is cleaned or its motor replaced; both require opening the machine.

The machine stops mid-drying and shows H3.

Possible causes

• An air duct blocked with lint
• A slow fan
• The thermostat

Solution: Unplug the machine and let it cool. A repeated code means the air is not flowing well, which needs internal cleaning.

An oversized load lengthens drying and makes the machine run hotter than it should.

About once a month, because lint shed during drying collects there. The internal air duct and fan are cleaned by a technician if H3 keeps appearing.

Usually the load exceeds the drying capacity, or the spin before it was weak. Try half the load after a high spin. If it still takes long, the heater or fan needs checking.

Usually yes, because the drying circuit is separate. But if H3 keeps appearing or there is a burning smell, unplug it until it is inspected.

The flame burns while you press and goes out when you let go.

Possible causes

• Not pressing long enough after lighting
• A dirty thermocouple tip or one out of the flame
• The thermocouple or safety valve

Solution: Hold for 10 to 15 seconds after lighting. If it still goes out, clean the thermocouple tip and seat the cap properly. If that fails, the thermocouple is replaced.

Clicking without lighting, or no spark at all.

Possible causes

• An ignition electrode wet from wiping
• A cap out of place
• The ignition unit

Solution: Dry the ignition electrode and leave it an hour. If no burner sparks, the ignition unit needs checking.

A yellow flame that blackens pans, or a low flame even at full.

Possible causes

• Blocked burner holes
• A jet not matched to the gas type

Solution: Clean the holes with a dry brush. Changing jets when switching between cylinder and mains gas is a technician's job.

The oven burner will not light or goes out after a few minutes.

Possible causes

• The oven thermocouple
• The oven thermostat
• A blocked oven burner

Solution: This needs inspection. First check that the door closes properly and nothing blocks the oven openings.

Water on the ignition electrode after wiping is the most common reason the igniter fails.

Check it once a year. If it is cracked, close the valve and replace it at once with a matching gas hose, and leak-test the joint with soapy water, never a flame. On mains gas, have a technician or the gas company do it.

Common parts such as thermocouples, ignition electrodes, jets and hoses come in standard sizes. Model-specific parts such as knobs or the thermostat are identified from a photo of the label.