Whirlpool Repair

The programme stops before spinning, and the door will not open because there is water inside.

Possible causes

• The pump filter blocked by lint, a coin or a hairgrip
• The drain hose kinked or pushed too far into the pipe
• A blocked sink or wall drain
• The drain pump or its wiring (F11)

Solution: Unplug the washer and let the water cool if the programme was hot, then drain the water through the filter opening, clean the filter and check the pump impeller behind it turns. Straighten the drain hose. If the code returns with a clean filter, or F11 appears, the pump needs testing.

You close the door and the programme does not start, or it ends and the door stays locked.

Possible causes

• Clothes or the seal caught at the door catch
• The electric door lock
• FreshCare+ still running after the programme

Solution: Make sure nothing is in the catch's way and close the door gently until it clicks. If FreshCare+ is running, stop it first and try the door a little later. If F06 stays, the lock needs checking.

Clothes come out poorly washed on hot programmes, or the washer pauses during the wash.

Possible causes

• A burnt-out or scaled heater
• The temperature sensor
• The heating circuit on the board (F07)

Solution: The only safe step here is a single restart. If the code returns, the technician measures the heater and sensor with a meter, and both can be replaced without taking the drum apart.

The buttons do not respond or functions cannot be selected, all the lights flash, or the drum turns intermittently or not at all.

Possible causes

• The electronic board (F01)
• The motor circuit (F02)
• A software fault (F09)
• The electronic control or display (F12)
• Voltage swings or low supply

Solution: Unplug for at least two minutes, plug back in and wait half a minute before choosing a programme. If the code returns, the board or motor circuit needs checking, and the technician will also measure the socket voltage.

The washer walks across the floor, or roars loudly even with a light load.

Possible causes

• The load bunched on one side
• Unlevelled feet
• Transit bolts still in a new washer
• Shock absorbers or bearings

Solution: Spread the clothes and level the feet with a spirit level. A constant roar points to the bearings, and changing them means dismantling the drum.

Before opening it, unplug the washer and let the water cool if the programme was hot. Check pockets before washing too; hairgrips and coins are what usually trigger F05.

Too much makes foam that slows draining and spinning and leaves a smell in the seal.

Wipe inside the seal with a dry cloth, so mould does not form and harden the rubber.

The washer cannot drain. Unplug it, let the water cool if the programme was hot, empty the water through the filter opening at the bottom, clean the filter and straighten the drain hose. If the code comes back after that, the pump needs testing.

On models with FreshCare+, the drum keeps turning at intervals for up to 6 hours after the programme, and the maker says to stop it when you are ready to unload. Stop it and wait two minutes. If there is no FreshCare+, the door stays locked and there is no water inside, the lock needs checking.

The programme ends with clothes still damp, especially heavy items.

Possible causes

• A blocked lint filter at the door
• The heat exchanger filter at the bottom full of lint
• A load larger than the drying capacity
• The moisture sensor coated with softener residue

Solution: Clean the door filter after every cycle and the exchanger filter every few cycles. Wipe the two metal strips inside the drum with a cloth dampened with vinegar. If all that is clean and the problem continues, the fan or the heat pump compressor needs a technician.

The dryer stops midway even when the tank is not very full.

Possible causes

• The tank really full or not seated properly
• The small pump that lifts water to the tank
• A stuck tank float

Solution: Empty the tank and push it back until it locks. If the light comes on with an empty tank, the pump or the float needs checking.

Washing is normal, but the drying stage stops or clothes come out cold and wet.

Possible causes

• The drying temperature sensor (F13)
• The drying fan or its heater (F19)
• The heater control (F15)

Solution: Try a drying-only programme with a small load. If the code shows again, these are internal parts and the repair is for a technician.

The same load used to finish in two hours and now takes longer.

Possible causes

• The filters
• The dryer in a closed, hot room
• Clothes coming out of the washer poorly spun

Solution: Clean both filters, keep the room door open while running, and spin clothes at high speed before drying.

Built-up lint blocks the airflow and lengthens the programme.

On a heat pump dryer, rinse it with water and let it dry before refitting.

Because the drying capacity is smaller than the washing one: the WWDC 9614 washes 9 kg and dries 6. Split the load in two and clothes will dry faster and better.

Ice cream is frozen solid, but the vegetables and drinks below are warm.

Possible causes

• Ice blocking the air duct after a defrost fault
• The defrost heater, its sensor or the timer
• The freezer fan
• The door left open or a seal not closing

Solution: Listen for the fan inside the freezer when you open the door and press the door switch. If ice shows on the back wall, empty the fridge and leave it unplugged with the doors open for a full day; if it cools again and the fault returns days later, the defrost cycle needs a technician.

Water collects under the crisper drawer, or there is a puddle in front of the fridge.

Possible causes

• A blocked defrost drain hole
• The fridge tilted forward
• The evaporation tray at the back cracked or out of place

Solution: Clear the drain hole on the inner back wall with warm water and a syringe, and set the feet so the fridge leans slightly back. If the water comes from the freezer itself, it needs an inspection.

A layer of ice on the freezer wall or around the drawers, when this type of fridge should not build ice.

Possible causes

• The door not closing well or opened often
• A dried-out or torn door seal
• A defrost heater fault

Solution: Wipe the seal with soapy water and do the paper test at several points. If the seal is sound and ice keeps returning, the defrost heater or its sensor needs measuring.

A constant hum, repeated clicking, or a scraping sound inside the freezer.

Possible causes

• The fridge not level or touching the wall
• The freezer fan hitting ice
• The compressor relay or overload

Solution: Level the fridge and move it away from the wall. Light ticking while cooling is normal. Clicking every few minutes with the compressor not starting points to the relay, which is a technician's job.

Dust on the back or underneath makes the compressor run longer and hotter.

Power returning suddenly after a cut stresses the compressor and the board.

Usually not. If the freezer is freezing, the refrigerant is there and the compressor is running; the problem is that cold air is not reaching the lower section. That is a defrost or fan fault, and the refrigerant is checked only if both sections are barely cold.

Food stays soft inside, or the temperature does not drop as it used to.

Possible causes

• Thick ice on the walls insulating the cold
• The lid or door not sealing
• The freezer next to a heat source or against the wall
• Low refrigerant or a compressor fault

Solution: Defrost if the ice has thickened, move the freezer away from the wall and sunlight, and check the seal closes. If it is still warm and the walls are not cold, call a technician.

Ice returns days after defrosting, or gathers at the lid edge.

Possible causes

• A dry or split lid seal
• The lid opened often or left ajar
• Loose lid hinges

Solution: Close the lid on a sheet of paper; if it pulls out easily, the seal is not closing. Clean it with warm water, and if it is split it needs replacing.

You hear a click and a start, then it stops after seconds, over and over.

Possible causes

• Low mains voltage
• The compressor start relay or overload protector
• A dusty condenser or no ventilation around it

Solution: Run it on its own socket without an extension, and leave space around it. If the clicking continues, unplug it so the compressor does not overheat and book an inspection.

Upper drawers are frozen and lower ones less so, or the fan cannot be heard.

Possible causes

• Overfilled drawers blocking the air vents
• The evaporator fan
• Defrost stopped and ice blocked the duct

Solution: Lighten the load and leave space in front of the vents. If the fan is silent or there is ice on the inner back wall, the defrost system or fan needs a technician.

On defrost chest models, as soon as the ice reaches about half a centimetre.

So heat from the walls and condenser can escape, especially in summer and in closed kitchens.

Retailers state the chest models hold the cold for up to 45 hours if the lid stays shut, and that drops if the freezer is not full or is opened. Check the food itself: if it still has ice crystals inside, it is usually fine.

It lights normally, but the flame disappears as soon as you lift your hand.

Possible causes

• Not holding the knob down long enough
• The thermocouple out of the flame or dirty
• A weak thermocouple

Solution: Press and wait 5 to 10 seconds after it lights. Make sure the burner cap sits properly, and wipe the thin probe beside it. If it still goes out, the thermocouple needs replacing.

You hear the spark but the gas does not catch, or the spark is weak.

Possible causes

• The burner cap displaced or its holes blocked
• The ignition electrode wet or greasy
• The gas valve or cylinder

Solution: Let the burner dry if it was washed, clean the holes with a dry brush, and seat the cap correctly. If clicking continues with the knob off, that is a switch fault for a technician.

The flame is tall and yellow, and pans turn black underneath.

Possible causes

• Blocked burner holes
• An injector not suited to the gas type
• High gas pressure

Solution: Clean the burner and cap. If the flame stays yellow, the injector or pressure needs a technician, because incomplete combustion releases toxic gas into the kitchen.

The hob works but the oven does not, or it lights and goes out.

Possible causes

• Not holding the oven knob long enough
• The oven thermocouple
• The thermostat

Solution: Open the oven door while lighting and hold the knob longer. If gas does not arrive or it goes out, stop, and do not keep retrying so gas does not build up inside.

Let them dry completely before refitting, so ignition catches first time.

If it is cracked, hardened or old, close the valve and have a technician or the gas company replace it with a hose that meets the standard; never test for leaks with a flame.

That is the safety system closing the gas because the thermocouple has not heated up yet. Hold the knob for 5 to 10 seconds. If one burner still goes out, its thermocouple needs replacing.

The display works, but the oven takes ages to reach temperature or never does.

Possible causes

• The top grill, the ring element behind the fan, or the bottom element
• The temperature sensor
• A relay on the board

Solution: Try each function on its own: grill, fan oven, and top-and-bottom heat. The function that does not heat points to the element. Measuring and replacing it with the power off is a technician's job.

Food cooks on one side only, or there is a scraping sound on fan mode.

Possible causes

• The fan motor
• A loose fan blade or one rubbing on the cover

Solution: Run fan mode, open the door for a few seconds and look at the fan. If it does not turn or squeaks, the motor needs checking.

As soon as it starts heating, or after a few minutes, the power trips.

Possible causes

• An element shorting to the casing
• Water or steam reaching the connections
• A breaker too small for the oven's load

Solution: Leave the breaker off and do not reset it again. This is an electrical fault that needs a technician to test each element separately.

The flame appears while you press, then vanishes once you release the knob.

Possible causes

• Pressing the knob too briefly
• The oven thermocouple
• Low gas pressure

Solution: Hold the knob longer after it lights. If that does not help, the thermocouple needs replacing; do not keep retrying back to back.

Burnt-on grease on the elements and fan shortens their life and causes smoke.

A loose seal lets heat out, so the oven works harder and the cabinet around it heats up.

Each function uses a different element. Fan mode relies on the ring element behind the fan and the fan itself, so one of those is usually the fault while the rest are fine.

The motor runs and sounds normal, but the steam is not drawn up.

Possible causes

• Grease-filled filters
• A long, bent or blocked exhaust duct
• A stuck non-return flap in the outlet

Solution: Wash the filters and test again. If it is still weak, check the duct and whether the flap opens. If the ducting is fine and suction is weak, the fan or motor needs checking.

A hum or rattle that grows at high speed.

Possible causes

• The hood not firmly fixed to the wall
• Fan blades with heavy grease or a broken blade
• The motor bearings

Solution: Tighten the mounting screws. If the noise comes from inside the motor, cleaning or replacing it is a technician's job.

The light comes on but the fan will not turn at any speed.

Possible causes

• The speed switch
• The motor run capacitor
• The motor itself

Solution: If you hear a hum without rotation, switch off at once so the motor does not burn out. That is usually the capacitor, an easy change for a technician.

The fan works but the lights are off.

Possible causes

• A burnt-out halogen bulb
• The light switch or wiring

Solution: Cut the power, let the bulb cool, and replace it with one of the same wattage and base. If both stay off after replacing, the switch needs checking.

Roughly monthly, more often if you fry a lot.

A few minutes on low so the remaining steam clears and does not condense inside.

They are washed and refitted, and only need replacing if they get bent or torn. What usually needs replacing is the carbon filter, on hoods that run without an exhaust duct and return the air to the kitchen.

The plate turns and the timer counts normally, but a cup of water comes out cold.

Possible causes

• The magnetron
• The high-voltage capacitor or diode
• The high-voltage transformer
• An internal fuse

Solution: Make sure you are not on grill-only mode or a low power level. If it is on full power with no heating, the check is inside a high-voltage circuit and needs a technician.

Blue flashes or a crackling sound while running.

Possible causes

• Metal or a plate with a gold rim
• Burnt food residue on the walls
• A burnt waveguide cover (the mica sheet)

Solution: Remove any metal and clean inside. If the small panel on the side wall shows a black burn, replace it before using again.

The microwave heats, but food warms on one side only.

Possible causes

• The roller ring out of place
• The plate not seated on the coupler
• The turntable motor

Solution: Clean and refit the ring, and seat the plate on the coupler. If it still does not turn, the turntable motor needs replacing.

The display works, but pressing start does nothing, or it stops when you touch the door.

Possible causes

• Child lock on
• The door switches
• A broken door latch

Solution: Check your model's manual for cancelling the child lock. If that is not it, the door switches are part of the safety system and must be replaced correctly by a technician.

Residue that burns onto the walls and the side panel is what causes sparks.

It cuts splashes onto the walls and the side panel.

No. This fault is in the high-voltage circuit, and the capacitor there stays charged after unplugging. Leave it to a technician with the tools to discharge the capacitor and test the magnetron.

The machine stops or finishes with water still under the filter.

Possible causes

• A blocked filter
• The drain hose kinked behind the machine
• A blocked drain connection under the sink
• The drain pump

Solution: Clean the filter, scoop out the water with a cup and towel, and make sure the hose and sink connection are clear. If water still does not drain, the pump needs checking.

The programme starts with no sound of water coming in, and the code appears after a while.

Possible causes

• The tap not fully open or low pressure
• A kinked inlet hose
• The inlet valve (F02)

Solution: For F06 open the tap fully, straighten the hose and try again. F02 points to the valve itself, which needs a technician.

The machine stops and the drain pump keeps running, or there is water on the floor.

Possible causes

• Foam from ordinary washing-up liquid
• A leak from the door seal or a hose
• An internal leak reaching the base

Solution: Turn off the tap and unplug the machine. If washing-up liquid or hand soap was used by mistake, remove the foam and let it dry for a full day. With no clear cause, a technician must find the leak before you run it again.

Dishes come out half-clean and cold, or the programme runs far too long.

Possible causes

• The heater (F10)
• The temperature sensor (F04)
• Scale on the heater from running without salt

Solution: Refill salt and rinse aid, and try a hot programme. If F10 or F04 appears, the part needs measuring.

Glasses are spotted and the upper plates are not washed.

Possible causes

• Blocked spray-arm holes
• A tall plate stopping the arm
• The wash pump (F11)

Solution: Remove the spray arms, clear their holes with a toothpick, and spin them by hand after loading. If F11 appears, the wash pump needs a technician.

Once a week; scraping big leftovers off plates before loading cuts down F03.

Tap water here carries minerals, and salt protects the heater from them and prevents white spots.

Not necessarily. The maker's own page says to start with the drain hose and sink plumbing, along with the filter. The pump is checked only if all of those are clear and the code returns.