LG Repair

The washer stops before the spin with water in the drum, and the door stays locked.

Possible causes

• The pump filter is blocked by coins, hairpins or lint
• The drain hose is kinked or squashed behind the washer
• The wall drain pipe is blocked
• The drain pump

Solution: With the washer unplugged and the water cooled if the programme was hot, drain the water through the small hose, unscrew and clean the filter, and straighten the drain hose. If all of that is clear and the pump is silent or hums without pumping, the pump needs checking.

The programme starts with no sound of water, or only a trickle, and the code appears after a while.

Possible causes

• The tap is not fully open or the house pressure is low
• The inlet hose is kinked
• The inlet filter mesh at the hose connection is blocked
• The water inlet valve

Solution: Open the tap fully and test the tap next to it. With the tap closed and the power off, undo the hose at the back and clean the mesh. If pressure is good and water still does not enter, the inlet valve needs testing.

The drum tries to spin and stops again, clothes come out wet, or the washer bangs during spin.

Possible causes

• A blanket or heavy jacket on its own in the drum
• A very small load, or clothes tangled together
• Unlevelled feet or a sloping floor
• Transit bolts still fitted on a new washer
• The shock absorbers

Solution: Untangle the load and add similar items next to the heavy one, and level the feet with a spirit level. If the code returns with a normal load on a level washer, the shock absorbers need checking.

The programme will not start, or stops and shows a door code.

Possible causes

• Clothes caught between the door and the gasket
• A bent or broken door catch
• The electric door lock

Solution: Clear any clothes from the gasket and shut the door until it clicks. Then unplug, hold Start/Pause for 5 seconds and power up again. If the code stays, the lock or catch needs replacing.

The washer stops during the wash or spin, sometimes with a click and no drum movement.

Possible causes

• A load beyond the washer's capacity
• Something jammed between drum and tub, such as a bra wire
• The motor sensor or its wiring
• The motor drive board

Solution: Reduce the load, leave the washer unplugged for half an hour so the motor cools, and turn the empty drum by hand. If it catches or grinds, or the code returns, inspection starts at the sensor and board before the motor.

A damp smell from the gasket or drawer, or foam filling the drum and washes taking longer.

Possible causes

• Detergent residue and lint in the gasket fold
• The door shut straight after washing
• Too much detergent, or one not made for front-loaders

Solution: Wipe the gasket fold, run Tub Clean with an empty drum, and use less detergent. A smell that remains after that may come from the drain hose or pump.

Clean it once a month, and check pockets before washing; coins and hairpins are the usual cause of OE.

Run it with an empty drum when tCL appears, or once a month if you mostly wash on cold programmes.

Leave the door ajar after the last wash and wipe the gasket fold with a dry cloth so moisture does not sit inside it.

The door stays locked while there is water in the drum. Unplug the washer, let the water cool if the programme was hot, drain the water through the small hose beside the filter, then clean the filter. Once the water is out, the lock releases by itself within a few minutes.

Not necessarily. The maker says LE means the motor is overloaded, so try the steps in the LE fault above first. The motor also carries a longer warranty from the maker than the washer, so check the purchase date before replacing anything.

Best not. Ordinary powder makes too much foam in a front-loader, so the washer extends the cycle or shows SUD, and the residue builds up in the gasket and drawer.

The code is on, the fan is silent or knocking, and there is ice on the back wall of the freezer.

Possible causes

• The freezer door was left ajar and humid air got in
• The freezer is packed so full it blocks the air vents
• The defrost cycle is not working

Solution: Move the food, lay towels, unplug and leave both doors open for at least 24 hours until the ice melts, then dry it, switch on and give it a day or two. If the ice returns within days, the defrost system needs a technician.

Freezer food is frozen, but vegetables and dairy below spoil quickly.

Possible causes

• Ice blocking the duct that carries cold air to the fridge
• The defrost heater or its sensor
• The fridge fan

Solution: A manual defrost by unplugging for a full day restores cooling for a while. If the problem returns, the technician tests and replaces the heater or sensor, and the compressor is usually fine in this case.

Neither the freezer nor the fridge is cold, while the panel is lit.

Possible causes

• Display mode OF F is on
• Low or unstable voltage
• The inverter compressor drive board
• A refrigerant leak

Solution: Rule out display mode and check the socket supply. If the back stays cold and the compressor is silent for hours, the technician measures the board and compressor, and any leak is found and brazed before recharging.

Water pooling under the crisper drawer, or drips at the front of the fridge.

Possible causes

• The defrost drain blocked by food residue
• The drain tube at the back has slipped out of its tray
• The fridge tilting forward

Solution: Flush the drain with warm water and a syringe, and set the front feet slightly higher than the back so the doors close by themselves. If the drain freezes inside, that is a defrost fault.

Clicking or knocking inside the freezer, or a loud buzz from behind the fridge.

Possible causes

• The fan blade hitting ice
• A dusty condenser fan at the back
• The fridge touching the wall or not level

Solution: An inverter compressor makes a soft, changing hum, which is normal. Knocking from the freezer is usually ice on the fan, and a buzz from the back is fixed by cleaning and moving the fridge away from the wall.

Make sure the door closes by itself with nothing blocking it, and wipe the seal with warm water; humid air getting in is what causes Er FF.

Do not pack food against the back wall of the freezer, so air can circulate.

Pull it out and dust the condenser and fan, and leave a gap between it and the wall.

On an inverter compressor that is normal, because it runs slowly for long periods instead of switching on and off. It is a fault when it runs and the temperature inside does not drop.

A manual defrost only removes the ice; if the defrost heater or its sensor has failed, ice will build up again, and a technician needs to test them. A door seal that does not close properly can also let humid air in.

Air is coming out but it is not cold, or the room never reaches the setting, and the code may appear after a while.

Possible causes

• A clogged filter
• A dirty outdoor unit, or one in an enclosed spot
• Low voltage at peak hours
• Low refrigerant from a leak

Solution: Wash the filter, and clear anything boxing in the outdoor unit if it can be reached safely. If CH38 appears after a new installation, the installer must check the refrigerant charge. If it appears after long use, switch off for 5 minutes; if it returns there is a leak that must be found before recharging.

The indoor unit runs while the outdoor unit stays silent, and the code appears after a few minutes.

Possible causes

• A loose or damaged cable between the units
• Wrong wiring after installation or a move
• The indoor or outdoor board

Solution: If the code appeared straight after installation, the installer checks the wiring. Otherwise switch off for 5 minutes and restart; if it returns, the cable and both boards need testing.

The unit cools for a while and then the outdoor unit goes quiet, especially at midday.

Possible causes

• Unstable or weak mains supply
• A dirty condenser with hot air recirculating onto it
• The outdoor inverter board
• The compressor

Solution: If the outdoor unit can be reached safely, clear anything boxing it in and leave space around it; washing the condenser itself is a technician's job. Then switch off for 5 minutes. The maker says to stop using it if the code returns. The technician measures voltage, current and the board before judging the compressor.

No air from the indoor unit, the outdoor fan is not turning, or there is a knocking sound.

Possible causes

• Leaves or debris in the outdoor fan
• The indoor (CH10) or outdoor (CH67) fan motor
• The fan's control board

Solution: Switch off the breaker. If the outdoor unit can be reached safely, remove any visible debris from its fan without dismantling anything; if it is mounted outside a window or up a wall, do not try to reach it and leave it to the technician. Restart after 5 minutes; if the code stays, the fan motor needs testing.

A trickle down the wall under the unit, or drips on the floor.

Possible causes

• A drain hose that is blocked or rises somewhere along its run
• A dirty filter letting the coil ice up and then melt at once
• The unit mounted at a tilt

Solution: Clean the filter and trace the drain hose to its end. If the tray inside is blocked, it is cleared when the unit is washed.

The unit stops or behaves oddly with the code showing.

Possible causes

• The room or pipe temperature sensor
• A loose sensor plug
• The board

Solution: Switch off for 5 minutes. If the code returns, replacing the sensor is a relatively simple repair, but a technician needs to measure it first.

Wash it every week or two in the cooling season, more often in dusty areas; on these models it slides out from the front easily.

The evaporator inside and the condenser outside, with the drain hose cleared and the electrical connections tightened.

If your supply drops often, a stabiliser sized for the unit protects the outdoor inverter board; check before each summer that it is working properly.

No. The refrigerant is in a sealed circuit, and if it is low there is a leak. Recharging without repairing the leak just runs out again, and running the compressor short of gas can harm it.

The S4-Q12JA3AE page on the maker's Egyptian site lists a ten-year compressor warranty. Check the warranty card and purchase date, and if it still applies, contact the maker before anything is opened.

Sound works and channels change, but the screen is completely black.

Possible causes

• The backlight strips on UHD and QNED sets
• The power board feeding the backlight
• The T-Con board or panel on OLED

Solution: Hold a phone torch close to the screen in a dark room. If you see a faint picture, the backlight has failed, and replacing the strips is a reasonable repair. OLED sets have no backlight, so diagnosis starts with the boards.

No response to the remote or the TV button, with the small lamp either lit or completely out.

Possible causes

• The socket, extension lead or stabiliser
• The remote's batteries
• The power board
• The main board

Solution: Try another socket and the power button on the TV, and do the 10-second unplugged reset. If the lamp is out in every socket, it is usually the power board. If it is lit but the set will not start, the main board.

Fixed vertical or horizontal lines, or part of the picture dark or wrongly coloured.

Possible causes

• The ribbon cable between board and panel
• The T-Con board
• The panel itself

Solution: Run the TV with nothing connected. If the lines also show over the settings menu, the fault is in the TV. The cable and board can be replaced, but if it is the panel itself, its price approaches that of a new TV.

YouTube or Netflix will not open, or the TV hangs and drops back to the menu.

Possible causes

• Weak Wi-Fi, or a router that needs restarting
• A pending software update
• Full app storage

Solution: Power the router off for 5 seconds and back on, update the software from settings, and remove apps you do not use. If the problem stays after a factory reset, the main board needs checking.

The TV is on and shows a message that there is no signal.

Possible causes

• The wrong input selected
• The external receiver off or frozen
• A loose HDMI cable
• The dish or lead on the built-in receiver

Solution: The maker says this message means no signal is arriving from the external device. Unplug the receiver for 5 seconds, make sure the HDMI cable is fully in at both ends, and select the right input.

A surge-protected strip or stabiliser, and unplug during storms or power cuts, then plug back in a few minutes after the supply is stable.

Dust the slots at the back, and do not fit the TV inside a closed cabinet; heat shortens the life of the backlight.

Keep automatic updates on, or check the settings for an update once a month, and never cut the power while the TV is updating.

Usually not. The panel is the most expensive part of the TV, and with fitting its price approaches or exceeds a new set of the same size. The technician gives you the exact price, and the decision is yours.

It can, if a static image such as a channel logo or news ticker stays on for long hours every day. Vary what you watch, lower the brightness for everyday use, and let the TV complete the maintenance it runs by itself after switch-off.

The programme stops or ends with water standing under the filter.

Possible causes

• A filter blocked with scraps
• The drain hose kinked behind the machine
• The hose end set too low, or a blocked sink connection
• The drain pump

Solution: Clean the filter and straighten the hose. The maker says the drain hose end must be at least 30 cm above the floor. If all of that is fine and water still stands, the pump needs checking.

No sound of water at the start of the programme, and the code appears after a few minutes.

Possible causes

• No mains water, or the tap is closed
• A kinked inlet hose
• The inlet valve

Solution: Open the tap fully anticlockwise and straighten the hose. If water is reaching it and the machine still does not fill, the inlet valve needs testing.

Food left on plates, or white marks on glasses once they dry.

Possible causes

• A blocked filter or spray-arm holes
• Salt or rinse aid has run out
• Loading that stops an arm turning
• The water is not heating

Solution: Clean the filter and the arm holes with a toothpick, refill salt and rinse aid, and load large items away from the arms. If the water is still cold at the end of the programme, the heater needs checking.

The machine stops and runs the drain pump, or foam is coming out of the door.

Possible causes

• Washing-up liquid used by mistake
• A large bowl facing up and filling with water
• The machine is not level
• A leak from an internal hose or seal

Solution: Turn off the tap and the power. If soap was the cause, remove the foam and let the machine dry for a day, then use only dishwasher tablets or powder. If there was no foam and the code returns, the leak needs a technician.

Dishes come out greasy and the machine is cold at the end, or it stops with a heater or sensor code.

Possible causes

• The heater
• The temperature sensor
• The board that powers the heater

Solution: Unplug for a few minutes and restart. If the code returns, the maker itself says this fault needs a technician to measure the heater and sensor.

Twist the filter out and rinse it under the tap, and scrape large food scraps into the bin before loading.

Water is hard in many areas, and salt protects the heater and glasses from limescale.

On models that have it, run it empty to clear grease and scale from inside.

That is usually washing-up liquid. Unplug the machine and wipe away the foam. Then restore power, make sure the tap is on, and run a rinse with no detergent until the foam is gone. From then on use only dishwasher tablets or powder.

Usually not. Clicking comes from a spray arm hitting something or a light dish rattling. Pause the programme and turn the arms by hand. If it is a constant roar, the motor or pump needs inspecting.

The plate turns, the light is on and the timer counts down, but the food comes out as it went in.

Possible causes

• The magnetron
• The high-voltage diode or capacitor
• The inverter board on Smart Inverter models
• One of the door switches

Solution: Heat a cup of water for a minute on full power; if it stays cold, stop using it. Diagnosis inside means discharging the capacitor with a proper tool, which is a technician's job. On models such as the MH8265DIS the magnetron carries a longer warranty than the oven, so check the card first.

Flashes inside the cavity with a crackling sound, sometimes with a burning smell.

Possible causes

• Metal, foil, or a plate with a gold rim
• Burnt food residue on the walls
• The waveguide cover (the small panel on the side) burnt or greasy
• Chipped cavity paint

Solution: Stop it at once, remove any metal, and clean the cavity and the small panel with a damp cloth without removing it. If the panel is charred or the paint chipped and sparking continues, the part needs replacing.

The oven heats but the plate stays still, and food heats on one side only.

Possible causes

• The roller ring under the plate is out of place or dirty
• The centre coupler is broken
• The turntable motor

Solution: Take out the plate and ring and wash them, then seat the plate correctly on the centre coupler. If everything is intact and the plate still does not turn, the turntable motor needs replacing.

No light or sound at all when you press the buttons.

Possible causes

• The socket or extension lead
• A blown internal fuse
• A faulty door switch that blows the fuse
• The control board

Solution: Try another socket without an extension lead. If it stays dead, the fuse is inside, and replacing it without checking the door switches lets it blow again.

The door springs open, or heating cuts out with any movement of the door.

Possible causes

• A broken door hook
• The door switches
• A bent hinge

Solution: Do not use the oven if the door does not close properly, because the door is part of the radiation shielding. The hook and switches are small parts, but fitting them means opening the oven.

Grease that burns onto the walls and the small panel is the main cause of sparking.

Glass, ceramic or plastic marked microwave-safe, with no metal trim.

The MH8265DIS page on the maker's Egyptian site says the microwave has a one-year warranty and the inverter magnetron ten years. If the fault is in heating and the oven is within that period, contact the maker first.

The turntable, fuse, door switches and small panel are simple repairs. A magnetron or inverter board out of warranty can approach the price of a small new oven, so the technician gives you the price and you compare.

The cycle ends with clothes still damp, or the time remaining goes up instead of down.

Possible causes

• A blocked lint filter
• Dust built up on the condenser
• An oversized load, or clothes spun at a low speed in the washer
• A film of softener residue on the moisture sensors

Solution: Clean the lint filter and wipe the sensors, run Condenser Care on models that have it, and reduce the load. If the air inside the drum is not warm at all, the compressor or fan needs checking.

Drying stops part-way and the display asks for the water to be emptied.

Possible causes

• The container is full
• The container is not pushed fully home
• The internal water pump or its channel is blocked

Solution: Empty the container after every load and push it in until it stops. If the light comes on with an empty container, the pump or float needs inspecting.

The dryer will not start, or stops as soon as the drum turns.

Possible causes

• Clothes caught at the door
• The lint filter not fully seated
• The door switch

Solution: Take the filter out and reseat it fully, and clear any clothes from the door. If the code stays with the door properly shut, the door switch needs testing.

The dryer stops and shows a temperature or moisture sensor code.

Possible causes

• The dryer is in a very cold room (tE2)
• Dirty moisture sensors (HS)
• The sensor itself or its wiring

Solution: For HS, wipe the sensors and let them dry. For tE1, unplug, hold Start/Pause for 5 seconds and restore power. If the code returns, the sensor needs measuring.

Knocking or squealing from the dryer, or the motor running while the drum stays still.

Possible causes

• A coin or metal object in the drum
• The drum belt or rollers
• Lint or debris catching the fan

Solution: Check the drum and pockets. A squeal or a drum that will not turn means a technician has to open the dryer and check the belt and rollers.

Clean the filter before every load and empty the container afterwards, even after a small load.

Wipe them with a damp cloth, especially if you use a lot of softener.

On models with this programme, you pour about a litre of water into the container slot and run it to rinse the condenser.

Yes, it dries at a lower temperature so it takes longer, which is gentler on clothes. But if the time has grown for the same load, start with the filter and condenser.

On many models yes, with a small hose at the back. The method is in the model's manual, and if that hose gets kinked later, E13 will appear.