Zanussi Repair

The programme stops before the spin, there is water in the drum, and you may hear two beeps.

Possible causes

• The pump filter blocked by coins, buttons or lint
• The drain hose kinked or pushed too far into the pipe
• A blocked drain pipe or sink
• Excess foam from too much detergent
• The drain pump

Solution: Unplug the washer and clean the filter, turning the impeller behind it by hand if you can see it. Put the drain hose in a bucket and run a drain, to tell whether the problem is the washer or the house pipe. If it still will not drain with a clean filter, the pump needs testing.

The programme starts with no sound of water, or filling takes a long time and then the washer stops.

Possible causes

• The tap is closed or the pressure is low
• A kinked inlet hose
• A blocked mesh at the hose connection
• A drain hose set too low, siphoning water out
• The water inlet valve

Solution: Open the tap fully and straighten the hose. Close the tap, undo the hose at the back and clean the mesh, and check the drain hose height. If pressure is good and water still does not come in, the valve needs checking.

The washer sees the door as not closed, even when it is shut.

Possible causes

• Clothes caught between the seal and the glass
• The door not pushed until it clicks
• An overload pressing on the door
• The electric door lock

Solution: Clear any clothes from the seal, take some laundry out if it is overfull, and push the door firmly until it clicks. If the code stays, the lock needs checking.

The washer has detected a leak risk, excess foam or an unbalanced load.

Possible causes

• Too much detergent, or detergent not meant for front-loaders
• A scaled, blocked detergent drawer
• Clothes caught in the door seal
• A leak from the inlet hose or door seal

Solution: Use less detergent and leave the washer off for a few hours until the foam settles, and clean the detergent drawer. Check the inlet hose connections at both ends. If the seal is torn or the code returns, do not use the washer until a technician sees it.

The programme runs but the drum stays still, or the spin is skipped and clothes come out wet.

Possible causes

• A tiny load or one heavy item the washer cannot balance
• Water not drained
• The motor or the board

Solution: Add a few small items or spread the clothes by hand, and make sure draining works. If the drum does not turn at all or E50 appears, the motor and board need testing.

Hot programmes end with cold water, or the washer stops with a heating code.

Possible causes

• The heating element
• The temperature sensor
• Heavy scale on the element

Solution: This needs the element and sensor measured, and replacing them does not require removing the drum.

Clean it every month or two, and check pockets before washing for coins and tissues.

Extra detergent makes foam that triggers EF0 or slows draining, and the clothes come out no cleaner.

After the last wash, so moisture escapes and mould does not grow in the seal.

Count the flashes between pauses. On the brand's pages, one flash means a water inlet problem and two a drain problem. For any other count, film it and send it with the model.

Once the cause is fixed, such as a cleaned filter or a straightened hose, restart the programme or press Start/Pause; on many models that is enough. But if there is water on the floor or the code is EF0, do not touch the plug while standing in water: switch off at the breaker and close the tap first, and do not run the washer again if the code returns until a technician has checked it.

The freezer works well, but food in the fridge is not cold enough or spoils quickly.

Possible causes

• Ice blocking the air duct between freezer and fridge
• The defrost heater, its sensor or the timer
• The freezer fan
• The air vent inside the fridge blocked by food

Solution: Move food away from the vents. If you see ice on the freezer's back wall, empty the fridge, put towels underneath and switch it off for a full day with the doors open. If it then works and the problem returns after a few days, the defrost cycle needs a technician.

A layer of ice on the walls or around the drawers in an appliance that should not build ice.

Possible causes

• A door not closing properly or a worn seal
• A fault in the defrost cycle

Solution: Test the seal with paper and clean it with warm water. If the seal is fine and ice keeps returning, the heater or sensor needs testing.

Water collecting in the bottom of the fridge, or dripping in front of it.

Possible causes

• A blocked defrost water drain hole
• The fridge tilting forward
• A cracked evaporation tray at the back

Solution: Clear the drain hole in the back wall with warm water, and adjust the feet so the fridge leans slightly back. If water comes from the rear, the tray needs inspecting.

The light is on but nothing cools, or there is no compressor sound at all.

Possible causes

• Low mains voltage
• The compressor relay or overload
• The board on digital models
• A refrigerant leak

Solution: Make sure the fridge is on a wall socket with no extension, and use a suitable stabiliser if your voltage drops. Otherwise the fault needs testing with instruments, and refrigerant in particular is technician work.

A roar or scraping from the top or back, or repeated clicking.

Possible causes

• The freezer fan hitting ice
• The fridge not level or touching the wall
• The compressor fan

Solution: Pull it away from the wall and level the feet. If the noise comes from inside the freezer and drops when you open the door, the fan is hitting ice, which points to the defrost cycle.

Wipe the seal with warm water, and clear the defrost drain hole without sharp tools.

Brush the dust off the condenser at the back with a soft brush after unplugging.

We found no published code table for the models sold in Egypt. If the panel shows a code or a flashing light, photograph it and check the manual, or send it to us with a photo of the label.

In many fridges the condenser sits inside the side walls, so that warmth is normal and rises in summer. What is not normal is very hot sides together with weak cooling.

The flame burns while you hold the knob in, and goes out as soon as you let go.

Possible causes

• Not holding long enough for the thermocouple to heat
• Burnt food on the thermocouple tip, or the tip out of the flame
• The burner cap not seated properly
• A worn thermocouple or safety magnet

Solution: Hold the knob a few seconds after lighting. Once it is cool, clean the thin thermocouple tip next to the burner with a soft brush and seat the cap properly. If it still goes out, a technician replaces the thermocouple, which is a quick repair; do not open any gas connection yourself.

Automatic ignition does not work on one burner or on all of them.

Possible causes

• The plug not connected
• A wet or dirty spark electrode
• A cracked electrode
• The ignition unit

Solution: Make sure the cooker is plugged in. If an electrode got wet from a boil-over, dry it well and give it time. If no burner clicks, the ignition unit needs checking. Until then, light it with a match: hold the lit match to the burner first, then press and turn the knob.

No flame in the oven, or it lights and goes out before heating up.

Possible causes

• Not holding the knob long enough
• The oven thermocouple
• Blocked burner ports
• The thermostat

Solution: Keep the oven door open while lighting, and hold the knob longer than for a burner. If you smell gas and the oven has not lit, turn the knob off, ventilate and wait a minute before trying again. If the safety cuts out after lighting, the oven thermocouple needs checking.

The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue, and uneven.

Possible causes

• Blocked burner ports
• The cap out of place
• Air setting or jet not suited to the gas type

Solution: Clean the burner with a brush, let it dry completely and refit the cap. If the home switched between bottled and natural gas, the jets must be changed, which is technician work.

No fan sound when the oven is on, or the lamp does not light.

Possible causes

• The plug or socket
• A blown oven lamp
• The fan motor

Solution: Check the power first. The lamp is changed once the oven is cold and unplugged. If the fan has stopped, do not use the oven until it is repaired, because the heat reaches the knobs and wiring.

Wipe up boil-overs as soon as the cooker cools, before they burn onto the electrode and thermocouple.

Inspect the hose and joints. If the hose is cracked or hard, it must be replaced with an approved gas hose with the valve closed, then test the joints with soapy water, never a lighter. On mains gas, a technician or the gas company should replace it.

Usually water or cleaner has reached the ignition switch or electrode after the cooker was wiped. Turn every knob off, unplug the cooker and let it dry for a few hours. If the clicking returns once it is dry, the ignition switch needs a technician.

Yes, but it needs the jets changed and the minimum flame set on each burner and the oven, then a leak test. Do not do it yourself.

The flame appears while you hold the knob, then goes out after you release it.

Possible causes

• The knob released before the thermocouple heated
• A dirty thermocouple or one outside the flame
• A worn thermocouple or safety valve

Solution: Hold the knob longer after ignition. If it still goes out, the technician tests the thermocouple and safety valve and replaces whichever is worn.

No clicking or spark when you press the knob.

Possible causes

• No power to the oven
• A dirty spark electrode
• The ignition unit

Solution: Check the breaker and plug. If power is reaching it and there is no spark, the unit needs checking.

The lamp and fan work but the oven does not reach temperature, or heats from one side only.

Possible causes

• A burnt-out top or bottom element
• The fan element on fan-oven models
• The thermostat or temperature sensor

Solution: Try several cooking modes: if one heats and another does not, that points to the element. Measuring and replacing need the breaker off and a technician.

The real temperature is far from the setting on the knob.

Possible causes

• The door seal not closing
• The thermostat
• The tray at the wrong level

Solution: Put the tray in the middle and check the seal is intact. A simple oven thermometer shows the difference, and if it is large the thermostat needs checking.

The knobs or the cabinet around the oven get hotter than usual.

Possible causes

• The cooling fan motor
• Blocked ventilation openings in the cabinet

Solution: Do not use the oven until the cooling fan is repaired, because the heat damages the wiring and the cabinet, and clear the cabinet's ventilation openings if they are blocked.

Burnt grease on the seal and walls affects the temperature, and harsh cleaners damage the enamel.

Do not block the openings below or above the oven with stored items.

Usually not. In many ovens the cooling fan carries on until the oven cools. It is a fault when it keeps running indefinitely with the oven cold.

The programme stops or ends with water standing under the basket, with two flashes or beeps.

Possible causes

• A blocked base filter
• A kinked drain hose
• A blocked drain connection under the sink
• The drain pump

Solution: Clean the filter, straighten the hose behind the machine, and check that the kitchen sink itself drains well. If all that is fine and the code returns, the pump needs inspecting.

No sound of water entering, and the machine stops after a while with a single flash.

Possible causes

• A closed tap or low pressure
• A kinked inlet hose
• An inlet mesh blocked with scale
• The inlet valve

Solution: Open the tap fully, straighten the hose, and clean the mesh at the connection with the water off. If water still does not enter, the valve needs testing.

Water has reached the machine's base, so the anti-flood protection runs the pump and stops the programme.

Possible causes

• Foam from ordinary washing-up liquid
• A large dish deflecting the spray onto the door
• The machine not level
• An internal leak

Solution: Close the tap, clean the filter, spray arms and door seal, and check the machine is level. Unplug it and leave it until the next day with the tap closed so the base dries, then try a programme. If the code returns, there is an internal leak that a technician must locate.

Food left on plates, or white marks on glasses.

Possible causes

• A blocked filter or spray-arm holes
• Salt or rinse aid run out
• Loading that stops a spray arm turning
• The water not heating

Solution: Clear the holes with a toothpick, refill salt and rinse aid when their lamps light, and try the intensive programme. If the water stays cold, the heater needs checking.

The machine stops mid-programme, and the display shows a code starting with i5 or i6.

Possible causes

• The heater or temperature sensor
• The wash pump
• The board or wiring

Solution: Unplug the machine for a minute and plug it back in. If the code returns, do not keep restarting it, because this fault needs testing with instruments.

Clean the base filter once a week, and scrape food scraps and bones off the plates before loading.

Check their levels once a month and refill as soon as their lamp lights; hard water leaves scale on the heater and glasses.

No. That is AirDry: the door opens about 10 cm so the dishes dry in the air. Leave it open until the steam has gone.

No. Its foam reaches the base, triggers the leak protection and shows i30. Use only dishwasher tablets or powder.

The drying programme ends or runs long, and the clothes are still damp.

Possible causes

• The tap closed during drying
• A load bigger than the drying capacity
• A blocked pump filter
• A programme unsuited to the fabric
• The heater or sensor

Solution: Open the tap, reduce the load to the drying capacity, clean the pump filter, and choose the programme by fabric. If clothes are still damp and the machine does not heat, the heater and sensor need testing.

The machine cannot drain in the expected time, and may beep twice.

Possible causes

• The pump filter
• A drain hose kinked or more than 10 cm into the pipe
• Excess foam
• The drain pump

Solution: Unplug the machine, empty the water and clean the filter, and straighten the hose. If it still does not drain, the pump needs checking.

The programme will not start, and the machine beeps four times or shows E40.

Possible causes

• Clothes between the seal and glass
• An overload
• The child lock
• The door lock

Solution: Push the door until it clicks after clearing any clothes from the seal, and reduce the load. If the code stays, the lock needs replacing.

The machine stops and the display shows a code in the nineties.

Possible causes

• A communication problem between the electronic boards
• A voltage fluctuation

Solution: Unplug it for 30 to 60 seconds and plug it back in. If the code returns, the boards and wiring need a technician.

Find the drying capacity on the label or in the manual and keep to it every time.

A blocked filter slows draining and drying, so make cleaning it a monthly habit.

The motor runs but steam and smells are not drawn away.

Possible causes

• Grease-filled aluminium filters
• A spent carbon filter on recirculation
• A long, crushed or many-bend duct
• The backdraft flap in the duct not opening

Solution: Wash the filters and run it at top speed. If the duct is crushed behind a cabinet or very long, re-routing it makes more difference than any part.

A roar or knocking that grows louder at high speed.

Possible causes

• A filter not seated properly
• Grease built up on the fan blades
• Loose fixing screws
• The motor bearing

Solution: Seat the filters properly and tighten visible screws. If the noise is from the motor itself, the fan and motor need removing and cleaning or replacing.

Drops of oil or water on the cooker below the hood.

Possible causes

• Grease-saturated filters
• Steam condensing in a cold duct

Solution: Clean the filters, and switch the hood on a little before cooking and leave it running a few minutes after, so all the steam is cleared.

One or both lights are off, or a button does not respond.

Possible causes

• A blown bulb
• The plug or socket
• The button panel

Solution: Switch off the power first. If the bulb is replaceable, fit one of the same type and wattage; on LED models such as the ZHC92462XA the light is usually a module replaced by a technician. If everything is dead, check the socket; the button panel is replaced if it fails.

About once a month, more often if you fry a lot; a clean filter extracts better and protects the motor from grease.

A few minutes after switching the cooker off, so the duct dries out.

It differs from model to model, so check the manual first. Hand washing in hot soapy water is always safe, and a carbon filter is never washed.